The Brew Times
New Gluten Free Recipes
{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="148" type_name="CMS Static Block"}} New to Mr. Beer, 4 Gluten Free Recipes! We have been making brewing easy for years and we decided to add gluten free recipes to the mix. Check out this episode where we break down the new recipes and discuss gluten free beer in general. This episode pertains to our 4 new Gluten Free recipes that we are releasing this week. Ashley has been the leader for us in this move design all these recipes for us. So, I thought it would be great to have her on the show to take about the Gluten Free brewing and then at the end we will get into the recipes we have. Why gluten free? Well Robert, Believe it or not an estimated 31-40% of the world population carries the HLA-DQ genes associated with the predisposition for Celiac disease, Celiac is an autoimmune disease in which the sufferers immune system attacks the body as a result of gluten exposure, the results can range from minor discomfort and pain to being down right life threatening. Now of course, not everyone with the gene will develop Celiac disease but many people with this disposition will develop a genuine intolerance. That being said, approximately half of the world population, consumes alcohol … so given those statistics, you can bet more than a few celiac and intolerant people, miss beer terribly. Up until fairly recently your choices for Celiac friendly beer have been pretty limited. As someone with a deep love for beer and also the owner of some active HLA-DQ genes, I relate to this plight very personally and so do many of my fellow no- gluten people. Quite simply, we want to drink good beer despite our disease. Aside from celiac and gluten intolerance, there are also cases where people have other diseases primarily auto immune in where the consumption of gluten containing food and drink causes additional complications/ and or inflammation. The trend in gluten free beer seems to be getting more popular, how long have you been brewing and drinking gluten free beer? I have been brewing in total for nearly 9 years. I have been brewing gluten free beer for almost 5 years. I’ve been drinking it for the better part of a decade, whenever I could find it. The problem is finding it, which is why I started brewing it. How has gluten free brewing changed over the last few years? Or has it not changed? The brewing process hasn’t changed too much, at the end of the day we are still producing a “beer product” through means of fermentation. What HAS changed is the accessibility of gluten free brewing ingredients as well as more of an access to commercial knowledge from dedicated gluten free breweries such as Ground Breaker, Ghost Fish and Glutenberg. This has greatly widened the possibilities for producing GF beer at home. What are some of the ingredients that are used in gluten free brewing? Some of the most common fermentables and adjuncts used in gluten free brewing are, Sorghum, Rice, Millet Rice, Buckwheat, Belgian candy sugar, Corn syrup, And quite a few more. What are some of the benefits to using Sorghum? Sorghum is awesome for making gluten free beer and it’s one of only 2 commercially produced gluten free extracts, making it very easy to work with. Sorghum ferments well and is generally enjoyed by most yeast strains. If handled properly, sorghum can lend a very familiar “beer” flavor. So, lets dive into the 4 new recipes we have. I am going to let Ashley take over here to talk about these recipes. Vacation IPA This is one of my favorites. If you have been watching or have any familiarity with me, you know I LOVE HOPS and I really enjoy beer with a bitter backbone. This beer delivers. With a combination of azaaca and simcoe hops, this one had a lot of ripe stone fruit aroma and juicy haziness, rounding out with a strong and delicious bitter note. Grapefruit Crush Pale Ale OK so maybe I like bitter AND citrus in my beer. That sounds a lot like grapefruit doesn’t it… well out of that, Grapefruit Crush was born. This was a beer we could not keep in the keg, from all corners of the building, the masses arrived to drink it until it was empty. If you don’t like grapefruit as much as I do or you have a particularly large one, you can adjust the amount of zest as per your preferences. Acushla Red Ale This is one of the very first recipes that I created specifically for Mr. Beer. You see, I like my reds a little hoppy and VERY Crushable. I want to be able to drink a lot of it, easily. This red does that. Acushla means “darling” or more literally “my pulse”. This beauty is sure to get you wrapped around it’s finger. Mocha-Choca Oatmeal Stout This was a “challenge accepted” moment. The wonderful people at Mr. Beer asked “hey Ash, can you make us a stout? “ say no more fam… I am so proud of this beer. Stout kits are UNHEARD of in the realm of GF beer when it comes to extract based kits. I used coffee bean and cacoa nibs to create that dynamic and layered stout flavor without a whole bunch of specialty malts. This beer took quite a few renditions to get it to be what I was looking for and I hope you enjoy drinking it as much as I did creating the formula.
Read moreThe Brew Times
Bittering Hops
{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="147" type_name="CMS Static Block"}} Want to learn how to get more bitterness out of your beer and what hops are best to use. Check out this episode where we break it all down for you and best practices for to brew more bitter beers. When talking about the concept of bittering hops what are we referring to? More than a specific type of hops, “bittering” hops refers more to the stage that the hops are added, during the boil, during the hottest stages of your process, this causes the hops to release bitter tasting Isohumulone, hence the term “bittering hops” What is it? Basically, any hop added during the boil process, will release some bitterness. But there are hop varieties that are more known and favored for their bittering qualities. Usually brewers will opt to use higher alpha hops for their bitter hop additions. What are some types of bittering hops that are commonly used? Well there are tons of them but some that come to mind first are: Chinook at 12%-14%, magnum 10-14%, Galena hops 13-15%, warrior hops 15-17%, but also lower alpha acid Noble hop varieties are also used for bittering depending on the beer style. What are some new styles of bittering hops that have become popular lately? New hop varieties pop up on the scene everyday and what I keep seeing more and more is a diversion from using typical bittering hops. Brewers are reaching for these new hops that may have previously been seen as exclusively for aroma or flavor and they are using them in all purposes including bittering. How can you decide what hops are for bittering? Usually when you purchase hops, they will be categorized as either bittering, aroma or dual purpose. Bittering hops are usually characterized by high alpha acid contents and lower aroma throw/flavor though that is not always exclusively the case. What is the proper way to use hops for bittering when brewing? If your desire is to draw bitterness from your hops then you have to use them in the boil. If you add a hop variety with the purpose of adding bitterness but not flavor too late in the process, you probably won’t achieve the level of IBU’s that you are looking for. The rule of thumb with any hop is the more heat, for a longer period of time, the more bitterness you will achieve. Can you use non-bittering hops in your long 60-minute boils? Can you use non-bittering hops in your long 60-minute boils? So that’s a little bit of a trick question. Technically any hop that you boil at high isomerization temperatures for long periods of time will become bitter, the question is how bitter so to answer simply, yes you can. But, boiling low alpha hops when you want a high IBU beer can be inefficient and wasteful. If you find yourself having to use huge amounts of hops to achieve the bitterness you’re looking for, you may want to opt for a higher alpha, boil appropriate hop variety. What are tips you would recommend people do and or use when wanting to add bitterness to their beer? Well first You need to think about what level of bitterness that is going to be appropriate for the beer you are making. If a bitter bomb is what you are after, reach for those higher alpha acid hops because they will give you the biggest bang for your buck. You also need to consider boil time. The longer the boil, the more pronounced the bitterness is a good rule to remember. Also consider the size and gravity of your boil. Remember less gravity, more bitterness.
Read moreWhat to Do When You Run Out of Sanitizer?
{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="145" type_name="CMS Static Block"}} Let me paint a picture for you. The weekend comes and you got a few hours to brew and drink some beer. Sounds great right? You get everything organized and get all setup to start to brew. Then you realize you have No-Sanitizer! Nooooo! This can ruin many brew days, but you don’t have to worry, we wanted to talk about some alternatives you can use when don’t have any Mr. Beer No-Rinse Cleanser on hand. Most of these are items that you may already have in your house or something that you can pick up really quick at any store. Bleach You can use bleach to sanitize your brewing equipment. The rule of thumb is to use 1 cap full of bleach for every 1 gallon of water. You will want to make sure the bleach is non-scented. A scented bleach can lead to odd smells and flavors in your brew. When using the bleach, you will want to mix up the solution of 1 cap to 1 gallon of water and then sanitize like you normally would. The only difference being that you will want to rinse your fermenter, bottles and utensils afterward until the smell of bleach is gone. This will help to prevent you getting some odd smells or flavors in your beer. Oxy Clean Free You will want to mix 1 tablespoon of this to a gallon of water. Again, once you mix this up you will use it the same way that you would normally sanitize. With this one we would also recommend giving everything a light rinse once you have covered them in the solution. The Oxy Clean Free has a similar chemical breakdown as our Mr. Beer No-Rinse Cleanser but since it is not Food Grade, we would suggest rinsing it to be safe. Hydrogen Peroxide Another great substitute is Hydrogen Peroxide. This works like our No-Rinse Cleanser. You will want to make sure that the grade of peroxide is at a 3% of higher. This can be found at most drug stores. You don’t need to mix this with water or anything. Get enough so you can sanitize all your equipment. You will use this the same exact way that you use our No-rinse cleanser. That covers all the replacement cleaners you can use just in case you don’t have any Mr. Beer No-Rinse Cleanser. If you brew a lot, I would suggest stocking up on some of the cleansers, it never hurts to have a few extra. I would also look at getting a small bottle of Startsan. This works great and something that I have used many times before. It’s a great alternative to use instead of the No-Rinse. I think the easiest thing to do is stock up on No-Rinse, they are only .95 cents!
Read moreThe Best Type of Water to Use for Your Homebrew
{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="144" type_name="CMS Static Block"}} This is a question we get asked quite often. Water is a big part of the homebrewing process, so you want to make sure you are using the right water to get the best beer. The types of water I am going to discuss are tap water, distilled water, RO Water, filtered water, well water and rainwater. Tap Water A lot of people drink tap water and it’s the easiest source of water to get when you are brewing. Our general rule of thumb is that if you drink your tap water then it should be okay to brew with. The main issues with tap water are that it can have a lot of chemicals in it and if your tap water has a lot of chlorine in it then I would advise against using it. That at some of the other disinfectants that are used to make it portable can impact your beer. If tap water is your only option, then use it but if you can use filtered or spring water I would recommend that. Distilled Water It is not recommended when you are brewing. To make distilled water is usually boiled and then condensed back down to its liquid form. If you are brewing all-grain don’t use distilled water. Now when brewing with malt extract it is a little different. Malt extract has minerals in it that will help promote yeast growth. However, we recommend to just not use it. Keep it simple just use filtered water. RO Water or Reverse Osmosis Water I look at Ro water as just a fancy setup for using a water filter. Basically, the RO system will just remove solid and sediment from the water by ruining it through a filter and a semipermeable membrane. We use RO water in the office as it is hooked right up and just makes it easy when brewing. Also like I mentioned earlier you are getting all those minerals you will need from the malt extract. So, RO water is good to use. Filtered Water I would consider this to be basically any water that is run through a single filter, like a Brita or a PUR Filtration system that you hook up to the tap on your sync. These will work perfectly for brewing as it filters your tap water and you don’t have to go out and buy spring water. When I am brewing at my house I just my Brita filter and I make sure to plan ahead so I have enough water already filtered before I start brewing. Bottled Water It is perfectly fine to use it will just cost you a little extra buying 2 gallons of water each time you brew. Well Water The general rule of thumb is that you can use well water to brew with, especially if that is how your drinking water to your hose is supplied. I still think the best way to brew it is with RO or filtered water but if your option is well water than you should be fine as long as it is safe for drinking. Rain Water While brewing super eco-friendly and brewing with rainwater it is not what is best for your beer. There can be certain chemicals found in rainwater that are absorbed from pollutions in the air. I would suggest not using rainwater. To recap the best water to use and what we recommend is Filtered water, RO Water and bottled water. You can use tap and distilled water as well but if you have the option to use any of the other ones, that would be ideal. A key point to make about brewing with Malt Extract. It is much more forgiving than brewing from all-grain. The malt extract contains a lot of the minerals that are needed to promote yeast growth. There is no need to have to get your water tested or buy specials chemicals to add to your water to change the profile. Just another reason why brewing with Mr. Beer is great.
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33 Brewing Terms Every Homebrewer Should Know
You may hear a lot of brewing terms thrown around all over the place but not quite sure what they mean or what they are. Well we decided we would break it down for, enjoy! Alpha Acid The bittering acid that is in hops which is measured as a percentage of weight. The low range for very little bitterness can be from 2%-7% while the high range can be from 13% and up. Attenuation Is a measurement of the fermentable sugars in your wort that is converted to alcohol during the fermentation process. The higher the attenuation the higher the ABV will be. Carboy Jug with a narrow opening at the top used in primary and secondary fermentation. Ranging in size from 5 to 6-1/2 Gallons and made from glass or plastic. Cellaring Method of storing or aging beer at a cooler temperature usually between 50-55 degrees. Chill Haze Caused by protein-tannin compounds when a beer is at a cold temperature. The beer appears to have a “haze” when you look through it. Will not affect the taste in your beer. Color (SRM) Color is measured in SRM’s or Standard Reference Method units. The measurements are expressed in degrees. The higher the SRM the darker the beer. Conditioning Processes of letting your beer sit out at fermentation temperature for an extended period in either bottles or a keg to let the residual yeast continue to clean up any off flavor that may be present. Bringing a beer into condition also includes carbonation. Diacetyl A chemical that can be produced during fermentation and is perceived as an off flavor in your beer. It will impart a butterscotch or butter popcorn flavor in the beer. Esters Term to describe fruity flavors and aromatics in your beer. For example, in Hefeweizen’s you will get banana aroma, which would be considered an ester. Fermentation Process of converting sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide by adding yeast. Finishing Hops Often called aromatic hops, these are added during the final minute of the boil to create hop flavor in your beer. Can also be achieved through dry-hopping by adding hops during or after fermentation. Flocculation When yeas clumps together during the fermentation process and moves to either the top or bottom of the fermenter. Hop Aroma Something that you can smell when drinking beer. Usually more present in IPA styles, different hops can provide unique aromatic features to your beer. Hot Break When proteins and polyphenols clump together during a wort boil and fall to the bottom of the kettle. IBU’s International Bitterness Units or IBU’s are a way to measure the bitterness in beer. The higher the bitterness the more bitter flavor in the beer. IPA’s tend to have high IBU’s while Lager’s are usually very low. Kraeusen The foamy head that develops on the top of your wort at the beginning of fermentation. The peak of this process called High Kraeusen. Lager A style of brewing that is done at a temperature between 40 to 50 degrees uses Lager yeast for a traditional bottom fermenting yeast. Lagering Processes of aging a lager beer at a cooler temperature usually between 40 to 50 degrees. Lautering Process of removing the grain after the mash. This is can be done with a strainer and may include a hot water rinse of the collected grains which is called sparging. Lauter-tun Brewing vessel that is used during the lautering processes to collect the grain. Malted Barley Barley that has started to germinate or sprout and then has been dried out through heat to stop the process. During this process sugars and starches are created that will be extracted during the brewing process. Malt Extract Comes in liquid or a dried form and can be hopped or un-hopped. During the brewing process when the wort is created it is run through an evaporator to extract water from the solution and condense it down to a syrup or powder. Mashing Grain starches are converted into fermentable sugars. This is done by submerging the grain in water at a temperature between 140-160 degrees up to several hours. Phenolic An off flavor that can be in your beer. It is often described as medicinal, or Band-Aid like. It can be caused by wild strains of yeast or bacteria. Pitching The process of adding yeast to the wort. Primary Fermentation The initial stage of fermentation which can make up to 75% of the total fermentation process. Priming Adds sugar to either your bottles or into a bucket to batch prime during the bottling process. This is how beer can be naturally carbonated. Racking The process of taking your beer from the primary fermenter into a secondary fermenter to continue fermentation or to add special additives. This is often done using an auto-syphon. Secondary Fermentation Stage after the beer has been transferred to the secondary fermenter and is the finish stage of fermentation. It is often a less active fermentation and can appear dormant at times. Specific Gravity Measurement of liquid as it compares to water using a hydrometer. When brewing, an Original Gravity is taken and at the end, a Final Gravity is taken. This calculates the ABV of your beer and to know when your beer is finished fermenting. Trub The substance at the bottom of your fermenter, it is pronounced “troob”. This is a byproduct of the fermentation process. Can also occur in naturally carbonated bottles or kegs. Wort The liquid right before you pitch your yeast and pronounced “wert”. Yeast Microorganisms that convert fermentable sugars to alcohol and Co2. Different types of yeast create different flavors in your beer.
Read moreHow to Keep Your Fermenter Cool During Summer
{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="142"}} It’s officially summer! With that comes the heat and unfortunately it might make it difficult to brew with that heat. We have firsthand experience with this being in Tucson, Arizona. We have a few months with temperatures over 100 degrees! That’s why we wanted to share our best ideas at keeping your fermenter cool for summer. So first let’s set the ideal temperature range you want to be at. For all our refills and most of our recipes you will want to be brewing at a temperature range of 68-78 degrees. This is where we have found the best results for brewing with Mr. Beer and what we recommend. If you are unsure of the proper range always check the website for the latest instructions for what you are brewing, and you can always reach out to us whenever you have questions. That temperature range we specify is for the fermenter, so you will want the ambient air temperature to be about 1-2 degrees cooler than that. Our brew room is set to be at 70 so all our brews no matter what the yeast, except for lagers of course, are brewed at a fermenter temperature of 71-72 degrees depending on how vigorous the fermentation is. We always hold a constant air temperature of 70 degrees in our brew room for all brews. So, depending on how your house is set up and what you feel comfortable doing there are a few different ways to keep your fermenter in the proper range when brewing in the summer. The first way would be like what we do in the office. If you have a dedicated room or space for fermenting with its own thermostat or window ac unit that you can maintain a constant temperature. You can set the thermostat to always be at 70. Then you just put your fermenters in there and let them do there thing. This is exactly how we do it in our brew room. The second would be to use a chest cooler like an Igloo cooler. Put your fermenter in that and freeze some 1-liter soda bottles and put them in there with the fermenter or you can also use ice packs. I would suggest putting a stick-on thermometer on the fermenter and one on the side of the cooler, so you can track the temperatures to make sure you are always in the right range and holding a constant temperature. Doing it this way will require a little extra effort on your part. First will be figuring out how many frozen bottles or ice packs you need to put into the cooler. This depends on the size of the cooler and where you have it stored at. Once you get that right you will also need to change out the bottles or ice packs as they start to melt and replace them with new frozen ones. Usually this is done every 2 or 3 days, but again it depends on your cooler and its location. The next way would be to use a spare refrigerator or even a mini fridge. As long as your fermenter or fermenters can fit you are good. With this you will want to get a temperature control unit. On our site we sell the Inkbird digital temperature controller outlet thermostat. We use this in the office for our lager fridge and it works great! Basically, you just plug your fridge into the thermostat and put the temperature sensor in your fridge and it will maintain your fridge temperature to what you set it to. This is a method where you can also just set it and not have to worry about it. These were some of our favorite tips and ways to keep your fermenter cool for summer brewing. Now there really is no excuse to keep the beer flowing all year long, Cheers!
Read moreLive at Homebrew Con 2019!
{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="141"}} We went live at Homebrew Con 2019 to give you the scoop of what it is about and what goes on. It's a great place to learn more about brewing, talk with other homebrewers and drink some great beer!
Read moreBrewing With Beano and How It Affects Your Beer
{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="140"}} Looking to brew an easy Brut IPA or a low carb, low calorie beer? In this episode we talk about the effects of using Beano in your beer and what benefits it can give you.
Read moreCan You Boil Hops in Booster?
{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="139"}} Who does not love hops? I know I do! One thing that we have changed with some of our new Recipes is boiling your hops in Booster. Over the 6 years I have been working here I was always told not to do it but never told why. So finally, we decided to try it ourselves. So, to answer the age-old question, can you boil hops in booster? The answer is YES!! Okay, so that is pretty basic let’s dive into some details about this. Let’s first discuss Humulone, and what it is. Humulone is the name for the primary alpha acid present in hops that causes bittering. But humulone must be Isomerized (through heating) to be available in its bitter form, known as isohumulone. Using a smaller boil volume, more concentrated wart can reduce the amount of bittering potential that are hops might have, this is because a higher gravity wort (meaning a wort with a higher ratio of sugar per volume of liquid) will decrease the rate of isomerization, so basically that means a wort with more water, will be potentially more bitter. BUT hops do need some gravity in order in impart flavor, and not just bitterness. As we’ve mentioned in a previous blog post, a smaller volume, more concentrated wart can reduce the amount of bittering potential that are hops might have, this is because a higher gravity wort (meaning a wort with a higher ratio of sugar per volume of liquid) will decrease the rate of isomerization, so basically that means a wort with more water, will be potentially more bitter. BUT hops do need some gravity in order in impart flavor, and not just bitterness. Okay, so wait can you boil hops in water? All though it may seem odd, you can boil hops in water, this is called a “hop tea”. It will cause a large amount of humulone to be excreted from your hops, however it can result in very little flavor. There are some brewers that stand by the idea that boiling hops in only water produces a grassy and undesirable vegetal flavor, however it is more likely that this is not true, as boiling in water voids the hops of their flavor and brings out only their bitterness which could be perceived differently on an individual pallet. Now when boiling hops it is always important to make sure that you are boiling your hops in either Booster, LME, or DME. You NEVER, want to boil your HME. You can think of a can of HME (hopped malt extract) as a concentrated wort, because that’s exactly what it is. The hops in this wort have already gone through their boil process and achieved “high isomerization” therefore boiling them further is unnecessary and could potentially alter the flavor to be undesirable. Also, boiling Malt extract can darken it and if you’re someone that’s picky about the color of your finished beer, this could be problematic. This is where boiling them in booster comes in handy. Adding booster to your hop boil, allows you to create the ideally balanced environment for your hops to have enough gravity to lend flavor but not so much that their bitterness is lost. Therefore, acting as the great mediator between the two qualities. Boiling your hops in booster, allows you to use a creative and dynamic hop schedule without changing or marring the flavor of your HME. It gives you far more control over your hops and the flavors that they are imparting. When using hops, always follow the instructions that come with your Recipe. If you want to experiment and go all mad scientist with some hops, just make sure that you do NOT boil them in your HME. Cheers, and Happy Brewing!
Read moreCan You Use Expired Mr. Beer Ingredients?
{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="138"}} Have an expired can of Mr. Beer? You must be wondering if you can brew it and how it will taste? Who wants to toss something that can create amazing beer! We answer once and for all if you can brew with expired Mr. Beer Items. This is a question we get often, it seems like people get re-gifted a Mr. Beer Kit or happen to find some old Ingredients hidden away somewhere. The first thing you do when you get or find these old ingredients, is turn them over to check the best buy date. Only to realize they are, expired! Noooooo!! The first thought that will come to mind after you recover from the heart break of finding these expired ingredients is, can you brew with expired Mr. Beer products? The Answer is, yes! Our Hopped Malt Extract’s (HME’s) are perfectly fine to use well past their best buy date. The cans have the dates on them for 2 reasons. The first reason is the malt itself. Over time Malt Extract darkens so the date is to help preserve the proper color in your brew. if you are brewing with an old can or one that is a year or two past its best buy date the final product will be darker than what it should be. This will only really affect you if you are brewing a lighter color beer. Like our Classic American Light, Canadian Blonde, Northwest Pale Ale, etc. If you have a darker beer, like our Oktoberfest Lager or St. Patrick’s Irish Stout, and it is past the best buy date you won’t notice a change in color as it is already dark. The dating is also on the can to keep the hops fresh in the HME. Over time hop flavor, aroma and bitterness will go away. This is also true with commercial beers. If you have ever gotten an old IPA you know what I am talking about. They just have this mellow taste to them, like the bitterness just disappeared and they are usually not enjoyable. Over time that same thing can happen with our HME’s but it takes a lot longer since it is in such a condensed form. If you are brewing one of our more hoppy styles, like or Diablo IPA or Long Play IPA and it is at or past its best buy date then you should expect your beer to be less bitter than it normally would be. The second main reason for the best buy date is for the yeast under the lid of the can. Over time yeast can lose its viability and not ferment as well or just not ferment at all. So, if you are looking to brew an old can that you found packed away or someone gave you that is 1-2 years past its best buy date we would recommend getting new yeast. For all Refill’s except for the Bavarian Weissbier any type of dry ale yeast will work. You can order replacement yeast packets from Mr. Beer or you can pick up a pack of US-05 at your local homebrew store. If you have a wheat beer you will want to make sure to get wheat yeast like WB-06. So, feel free to brew those expired cans if you got them. Just make sure that you are getting new yeast if you need it and that the results will not be as good as the normally would have been. Like with anything using fresh ingredients in your brew will create a much better beer. Cheers!
Read moreHow Adding Hops at Different Times Can Affect Your Beer
{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="137"}} Hops are fun and who does not like to brew with them? We thought it would be good to give you a basic overview of how adding hops at certain times can affect your beer.
Read moreUpdated Mr. Beer Instructions and The Best Way to Brew With Mr. Beer.
{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="136"}} Not sure about the best way to brew with Mr. Beer? Been a long time Mr. Beer customer and want to learn about our updated instructions? Check this video as we set the record straight for the best way to brew with Mr. Beer.
Read morePro Tips for Brewing our 7 Clone Recipes from Craft Beer Week
{{widget type="Magento\Cms\Block\Widget\Block" template="widget/static_block/default.phtml" block_id="135"}} We released 7 new Recipes for Craft Beer Week. We decided to clone some of our favorite and the most popular Craft Beers in the country. Check out our pro tips for brewing these recipes.
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