Tipo Italiano Pilsner 5 Gallon
A dry hopped pilsner? Yes, please!! This brew is a true lager, so it must be fermented cold. It is extremely refreshing with a crisp finish. This brew has an amazing golden color that will memorize you with every sip. The addition of the dry hop adds a unique blend of hop aroma. This will be your favorite lager in no time.
WHAT YOU GET
4 Boxes of Coopers Light Dry Malt
1 Packet of BrewMax LME Pale
2 Packets of Pilsen Malt
2 Packets of Carapils Malt
2 Packets of Munich Malt
2 Packets of Mt. Hood Hops
6 Packets of Saaz Hops
1 Packet of W-34/70 Dry Lager Yeast
8 Muslin Hop Sacks
2 Packets of No-Rinse Cleanser
FOR FANS OF
Original Gravity: 1.048
Final Gravity: 1.008
SRM: (Color): 5
IBU: (Bitterness): 32
PLEASE BE ADVISED: This recipe is meant to be fermented at lager temperatures. This is a range between 52-58 Degrees F
STEP 1: SANITIZING
Cleaning is one of the most important steps in brewing. It kills microscopic bacteria, wild yeast, and molds that may cause off-flavors in your beer. Make certain to clean all equipment that comes in contact with your beer by following the directions below:
1. Fill clean fermenter with 8 liters (2 Gallons) of warm water, then add 1 pack of No-Rinse Cleanser and stir until dissolved.
2. Use your measuring cup to scoop the liquid up and run it down the side of the Coopers Fermenter. Do this around the entire fermenter a few times. Then add your krousen kollar and repeat. Then take some of the solution and pour it into the lid and allow it to sit for 2 minutes. (If you have a different fermenter sanitizing may be different.)
3. To clean the spigot, open it fully and allow the liquid to flow for 5 seconds, and then close.
4. Pour some of the solution from the fermenter into a large bowl. You need enough to fully cover your brewing utensils. Place your spoon/whisk, can opener, and measuring cup into the bowl to keep them cleaned throughout the brewing process. Leave them immersed for at least 2 minutes in the cleaning solution prior to use. Any remaining solution in your fermenter can be discarded.
5. After all, surfaces have been thoroughly cleaned, do not rinse or dry the keg or utensils. Return lid to the top of the fermenter, proceed immediately to brewing.
STEP 2: BREWING
Brewing beer is the process of combining a starch source (in this case, a malt brewing extract) with yeast. Once combined, the yeast eats the sugars in the malt, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2). This process is called fermentation.
1. Add all 6 packets of grains between 3 of the muslin sacks and tie them closed so that the grains can flow freely within the sacks. Set aside.
2. Add 20 cups (1.5 gallons) of water to a 2 gallon or larger boil pot. Begin heating the water to a range of 155-160 degrees F and hold, it at this range. Next, add the grain sacks into the water, and maintain the 155-165 temp for 30 minutes.
3. While you wait, add the packets of Mt. Hood hops to another hopsack and tie it closed so that the hops have room to expand and flow freely within the sack. Set aside.
4. After the 30-minute steep has completed, turn off the heat and remove the grain sacks from the pot and place them into a colander to drain, allowing the runoff to flow back into the pot, and rinse the grain with one cup of hot water (around 160 degrees), letting the excess runoff flow back into your pot. DO NOT squeeze the grain sacks. Once drained, discard the grain sacks.
5. Increase the temperature of the grain water to med/high and sprinkle in the 4 boxes of DME and stir to dissolve. Continue stirring constantly to keep the rising foam in check. If it begins to rise, pull the pot off the heat, and lower the temperature slightly, continuing to stir (about 5 to 20 minutes depending on your particular conditions), until you hit the hot break which is where the foam has subsided, and the solution is now boiling.
6. Once the solution is at a low rolling boil, add the hop sack containing the Mt. Hood hop pellets. This will boil for 60 minutes total.
7. While that is boiling, add 2 packets of Saaz hop pellets to another hop sack and tie it closed so that the hops have room to flow freely within the sack. Set aside.
8. Once the first hop sack has boiled for 30-minutes, add the Saaz hop sack. While you wait, add another 2 packets of saaz to a hop sack and set aside.
9. Once there are only 20 minutes left of your total 60-minute hop boil, add the second saaz hopsack and allow it to boil for the remaining 20 minutes. Remove the pot from heat. Then add the LME packet, stir to combine.
10. Fill your fermenter with enough cold water to cover the spigot hole. Approximately 1-2 gallons of water.
11. Pour the wort including the hop sacks, into your fermenter, and then bring the volume of the fermenter to 5 gallons or 19 liters by adding more cold water.
12. Stir your wort mixture vigorously with your sanitized spoon or whisk.
13. Sprinkle the W-34/70 yeast packet into the fermenter, and place on the lid. Do not stir.
Put your fermenter in a location with a consistent temperature between 52° and 58°and out of direct sunlight. Ferment for 14 days.
STEP 3: Dry-Hopping
Dry hopping is the process of adding hops to a beer which will impart more hop flavor and aroma to your beer.
1. On day 7 of fermentation, add a packet of Saaz to a sanitized hopsack and add it to the fermenter.
2. On day 10 of fermentation, add the other remaining packet of Saaz to a sanitized hopsack and add it to the fermenter.
STEP 4: BOTTLING & CARBONATING
After 14 days, taste a small sample to determine if the beer is fully fermented and ready to bottle. If it tastes like flat beer, it is ready. If it’s sweet, then it’s not ready. Let it ferment for 3 more days (14 total). At this point, it is time to bottle. Do not let it sit in the fermenter for longer than 24 days total.
1. When your beer is ready to bottle, fill 3 1-gallon containers with warm water, then split the remaining pack of the No-Rinse Cleanser between them and mix until dissolved. Once dissolved, it is ready to use.
2. Distribute the cleaning solution equally among the bottles. Screw-on caps (or cover with a metal cap if using glass bottles) and shake bottles vigorously. Allow to sit 10 minutes, then shake the bottles again. Remove caps and empty all cleaning solutions into a large bowl. Use this solution to clean any other equipment you may be using for bottling. Do not rinse.
3. Add 2 Carbonation Drops to each 740-mL bottle. For 1-liter bottles, add 2 ½ drops; for ½-liter bottles add 1 drop. Alternatively, you can add table sugar using this table as a guide.
4. Holding the bottle at an angle, fill each bottle to about 2 inches from the bottle’s top.
5. Place caps on bottles, hand tighten, and gently turn the bottle over to check the bottle’s seal. It is not necessary to shake them.
6. Store the bottles upright and out of direct sunlight in a location with a consistent temperature between 70°-76°F or 21°-24°C. Allow sitting for a minimum of 14 days. If the temperature is cooler than suggested it may take an additional week to reach full carbonation.
TIP FROM OUR BREWMASTERS
After the primary carbonation has taken place your beer is ready to drink. We recommend putting 1 bottle in the refrigerator at first for 48 hrs. After 48hrs. give it a try and if it is up to your liking put the rest of your beer in the fridge. If it does not taste quite right, leave the bottles out at room temp for another week or so. Keep following this method until your brew tastes just how you like it.
This process is called conditioning and during this time the yeast left in your beer can help clean up any off-flavors. Almost everything gets a little better with time and so will your beer