The Brew Times Homebrewing Blog
Why you should add your booster to cool water and not to boiling water?
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="TMmpREE9zEw" video_title1="Why you should add your booster to cool water and not to boiling water?" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} This step may seem counterintuitive to most. You would think that things will mix better in hot water, but that is not always the case. We talk about the proper way to mix up your booster in this episode of BrewTalk with Mr. Beer. We are always working on ways to improve our brewing instructions and make the process easy and simple. One thing we found is that during those tests it is actually easier to mix the booster in cool water than into boiling water. That is why in the instructions we have you turn on the heat for your pot, then start to slowly add in the booster. We noticed that in the cool water the booster was easier to mix than in the hot water it seemed to become difficult to stir. So that is why you should add in your booster to cool water and not hot water. Another item I wanted to point out that is key is mixing the booster in slowly. Don’t dump the whole bag into the pot or you are going to have a tough time getting that to dissolve. I treat booster the same way I treat DME. I cut the corner of the bag and pour it in little by little. It makes it easier to mix up and it will make the brewing process go smoother for you. Cheers, Robert
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Why it is important to have cold water in your LBK before you pout in your wort?
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="0G_KFEJ70_o" video_title1="Why it is important to have cold water in your LBK before you pout in your wort?" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} One of the most overlooked steps in our brewing process, but it is in there for a reason and is not to be overlooked. Find out what those reasons are in this episode of BrewTalk with Mr. Beer. Adding cold water into your fermenter is a key part of our brewing process. When you go to pour in your wort it is very hot. If you have been brewing a refill or a recipe that mixtures have been boiling for a few minutes or for 30 minutes or longer. So if you just pour that hot liquid into your fermenter it's going to cause the fermenter to warp because the liquid is too hot. Now the structural integrity of the fermenter is damaged and it is no longer usable. And your stick with a brew and no fermenter for it. Another reason you want to have cold water in there is for the yeast pitch. When you have your cold water in the fermenter and add your wort, then top it off with more cold water it will bring the wort down to the proper pitching temperature. Which is roughly 67-75 degrees. If you pitch your yeast at a hot temperature it can kill the yeast and then your beer will not ferment. Our reason for adding cold water before you add in your wort is a way to prevent you from having to use a wort chiller or to try and make an ice bath in your sink. Any type of brewing method you are doing whether it be all-grain, partial mash, or full extract, you need to have a way to chill your wort before pitching your yeast. With our process, we made it easier for you so all you have to do is just add the cold water, and your good to go. So it is a critical part of the brewing process to make sure you have cold water in your LBK. Cheers, Robert
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Hefeweiss Banana Beer Bread Recipe
I don’t know about you, but one of my favorite types of bread, especially for breakfast, is banana bread. It just so happens that my favorite banana bread recipe is a lot like my favorite “normal” bread recipe, in that they both contain beer. I know, I know, you’re shocked, right?... Stop! That question was rhetorical. All joking aside if you like to brew and drink Hefeweizens, but you also enjoy warm and delicious banana bread… Say no more, as the kids say, “I got you, fam”. Besides tasting freaking amazing, this recipe is in keeping with my usual theme of “waste not” or at least waste, “less”. Got the trub-y cloudy bits leftover from a wheat beer brew? No problem. Got smooshed, bruised bananas? They are beautiful just like you, let’s use them up! Honey and or maple syrup hiding in your cupboard? Not for long! Don’t have any left-over Beer after bottling? That’s okay too! You can use a beer that is already bottled or even commercially produced beer, but what IS important, is that you use a beer specifically made with a “wheat style” yeast. This plays a big role in the flavor of your finished banana bread. Unfiltered, bottle-conditioned wheat beers are especially great, because the little bit of activity from the yeast in the beer, will help give it a lovely texture… But this is not completely essential to use a beer that contains live yeast cells. It’s just extra nice if you can, just don’t let a lack of access to that, stop you from making this yummy treat. Here is what you will need: 3 cups of All-Purpose Flour 1.5 Teaspoons of baking soda 2/3 cup quick oats 1.5 cups of VERY ripe mashed banana 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar 1.5 cups hefeweizen beer ¼ cup maple syrup or honey 2 tablespoons melted butter, vegetable oil or coconut oil ¼ Teaspoons kosher or sea salt A small pinch of ground cinnamon (you can use more to taste) Half a cup chopped walnuts or pecans (optional) Here’s how you make it: 1. Preheat oven to 375°. In a large bowl, mix flour, baking soda, salt, oats, brown sugar, and chopped nuts if you are using them. In another bowl, mix bananas, cinnamon, beer, and maple syrup until blended. Add to flour mixture; stir just until fully incorporated but be careful not to overmix it. 2. Next, Transfer that delicious bad boy to a greased 9x5-in. loaf pan. Drizzle the top with the melted butter or oil. Bake 55-60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in pan for at least 20 minutes before removing. 3. Slice, and enjoy! Now that you know how to make this delicious carb-laden creation, don’t go sending me your gym membership fees, you eat this at your own stretchy-pants risk, ya hear?!
Read moreShould you squeeze the air out of your bottles after you fill them?
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="8-ttNgqYbYk" video_title1="Should you squeeze the air out of your bottles after you fill them?" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} This is a topic that we were discussing amongst ourselves the other day. Does squeezing the air out of your bottles after you fill them do anything? We break it down in this quick episode of BrewTalk with Mr. Beer. The thought behind this is that you have a little bit of oxygen in that headspace between the top of the liquid and the top of the bottle. Oxygen as we know is not something that you want to get into your beer and it can create off-flavors. The main flavor when describing a beer that has been oxidized is that it has a cardboard or papery taste to it. So by squeezing that little bit of oxygen out you are preventing your beer from getting oxidized. To answer the question should you do this or not, our answer is no. For a few reasons. So our first feeling on this issue is that you are adding your carbonation drops or sugar before you fill your bottle with beer. Once you fill your bottle with beer the yeast will detect that there is simple sugars in your bottle and get to work on eating those up which will cause an off-gas which would push out the oxygen. Another reason why you would not want to do this is because of the damage it might cause to the bottles. By squeezing the bottles like that it could compromise the integrity of the bottles and decrease the useful lifespan of them. So to sum it up our recommendation is that you do not need to squeeze the air out of your bottles once you fill them with beer. It's not going to give you any real benefit and will reduce the integrity of your bottles quicker. Cheers, Robert
Read moreWhat to do if your fermenter is too cold?
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="orWCFuN09YY" video_title1="What to do if your fermenter is too cold?" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} Temperature plays a key part in the fermentation process. In this episode, we offer some tips on what to do if your fermenter is too cold and ways to warm it back up. Temperature is a key part of the fermentation process. Too warm and it can create off-flavors, too cold and the beer could not ferment or take longer to ferment. When brewing with Mr. Beer we recommend that the ideal temperature range for your beer be at 70-72 degrees. The wider range that we suggest is 68 to 78 degrees. Everything that we brew, using any type of ale yeast, we ferment at 70 degrees with great results. Now if your beer gets too cold that can slow down your fermentation so we have a few tips that you can use to warm it back up in the right range. The first would be obvious to move your fermenter to someplace warmer. We have heard of people putting them on top of their refrigerator. Another thing you can do would to try and wrap it in blankets to help keep it warm. The fermentation process creates some heat, so trying to keep that heat around the fermenter can help it warm up a little bit. Another thing you can do is to put a heating pad near or the fermenter on top of the pad. However, if you are going to do this it would be ideal to have a temperature strip on your fermenter. That way you know if your beer is getting warm and you can find the right range in temperatures. Also, when doing this you want to avoid a big swing in temperature. So don’t crank up the pad, then lower it, then crank it up again. That can create off-flavors. You want to make sure that you gradually bring the temperature and finding a good place where you can hold the proper temperature. If you cant get the temperature up and you are hovering around that 64-66 degree range, then you should fermenter your beer for longer. I would suggest pushing your fermentation to 21 days at this colder temperature to make sure the yeast will eat all those sugars up. It is still working, just moving a little slower than it normally does. The best thing you can do for temperature control is to have a thermometer on your fermenter so know exactly what your fermentation temperature is. Cheers, Robert
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Great Beers to Try This Spring!
Mild and negligible as they may be for parts of the Country, the subtle signs of spring are starting to appear… With those changes comes lots of new beer releases; not just for us here, at Mr. Beer, but across the craft beer industry. Breweries all over the nation look forward to a flourishing of limited ingredients and inspiration that this season of growth has to offer. It is probably no secret to you that we draw a lot of inspiration for our homebrew recipes, from these anticipated brewery releases. This Spring, we invite you to try some beers along with us! Below you will find just a few of the tasty brews that we plan to draw inspiration from this year. Don’t be shy, we want to know what you try! Get your hands on some of these great beers and let us know in the comments, what you would like us to create a Mr. Beer recipe, for! Cannot find any of these suggestions? Let us know what other beers you would like to see become “Mr. Beerafied”! Found Fortune Double IPA: Left Hand Brewing Co. “A treasure trove of tropical fruit & citrus from El Dorado, Galaxy, Citra, Comet & Cascade hops.” Dry-hopped with El Dorado, Galaxy, and Citra, this Double IPA boasts a wealth of candied orange, juicy tropical fruits, and fresh-squeezed grapefruit. 2-Row, Wheat, Rolled Oats lend a sturdy base with a silky mouthfeel while still allowing the hops to truly shine. This beer is hazy and golden bronze in appearance, boasting a rust ABV of 8.1% coupled with a noticeable, yet still a drinkable, 55 IBU. Available starting late winter 2021. Raspberry Mango Shebang Fruited Sour: Troegs Independent Brewing Co. “Sometimes you just know. This marriage of juicy mango and red raspberries was a sure thing. The perfectly paired tropical and tangy notes of the fruit are propped up by a rich foundation of oats, honey malt, and pilsner malt. The first fermentation with lactobacillus ups the tart kick, and a second pass with Hornindal Kveik yeast adds subtle notes of tropical pineapple. A shot of milk sugar softens the sharpness of the fruit and makes the whole shabang a sweet and tart celebration.” This brew boasts a pillow-soft mouth feel to cushion the bright pop of the acids. When we look closely, we see this beer is more complex than it’s funky, bright label would have you believe! With a 7% (unusual for a sour) ABV, it is no weakling, either. So, proceed with caution. Releases once a year, see brewery for details. Panther Cub Bourbon Barrel-aged porter with maple and vanilla: Founders Brewing Co. “A robust porter, Panther Cub is aged in the finest bourbon barrels available along with a kiss of maple syrup and vanilla extract. The aroma of maple and vanilla notes combine with a surprisingly deep character to make this rare creature one to gaze upon fondly. Don’t let it fool you, this kitty has claws.” This NOT your average porter. Layer on silky layer of flavor come together to deliver this deep and complex brew! It packs quite wallop at 9.2% ABV! Releases in March 2021 Orabelle Belgian Style Ale: Great Divide Brewing Co. “ORABELLE is brewed with barley, wheat, oats, and rye. This Belgian-Style Tripel is a golden beauty. Its two yeast strains, orange peel, and a dash of coriander impart surprising complexity and richness to this delicate ale. Do not let Orabelle’s “demure” nature fool you; this is one flavorful pour. Watch out, she’s a charmer – one sip and you’ll be in love.” This spicy Belgian beauty is complex and changes as it warms in your glass. This is a beer best enjoyed slowly, appreciating all its unique features. Another ABV that does not let you down, sitting at a robust 8.3%. Available February-April BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE… Feeling more interested in brewing something for this late winter/spring, rather than buying it? Well, I have you covered there, too! Below I have provided some awesome recipes you can find on our website, RIGHT NOW! A DARKER SHADE OF BLONDE STOUT: BREW SPECS Flavor: Malty Original Gravity: 1.078 Final Gravity: 1.020 ABV: 7.5% SRM: (Color): 15 IBU: (Bitterness): 40 So, you might be thinking that Stouts just aren’t “seasonably appropriate” beyond the cold days of mid-winter, right? Well maybe you’re not actually thinking that but let's just pretend you are, for the sake of my ego (heh, heh) Either way, if you want a glorious, “year-round” stout recipe, this is for you. Brew Master Zach’s rendition of this “Blonde Stout”, allows you to get the smooth and silky mouthfeel of a stout, with a lighter, yet still incredibly complex flavor. Offering a clean finish, flanked by a pop of smooth, roasty, coffee, and the delightful aroma of vanilla, it’s hard to justify a reason not to brew this one up! WANT IT NOW? Just click here. CHERRY BONBON DESSERT STOUT: BREW SPECS Flavor: Sweet Original Gravity: 1.074 Final Gravity: 1.029 ABV: 6% SRM: (Color): 32 IBU: (Bitterness): 50 Remember those chocolate, brandy, and cherry-filled candies your mother used to snack on when you weren’t looking? Maybe? Well, this recipe is exactly that, but now, just like you, it’s all grown up. One sip and you will swoon. Brew Master Ashley dove straight into her memories for this one! Layers of dark malts and chocolate play together with the sweetness of brandied cherries and silky lactose; this decadent, full-bodied dessert-stout aims to become the queen of YOUR heart. WANT IT NOW? Just click here. PINT OF SUNSHINE BELGIAN ALE: BREW SPECS Flavor: Saison Original Gravity: 1.053 Final Gravity: 1.011 ABV: 5.7% SRM: (Color): 5 IBU: (Bitterness): 40 What is more appropriate for the emergence of spring than a beer a called “Pint of sunshine”? The answer? Probably other beers that also have the word “sunshine” in the name… Obviously, but right now we are talking about “this one”! Okay, enough funny business, the bottom line is; once this brew hits your lips, a smile is sure to follow! The bright and dynamic pops of fruit and sugared citrus make this beer great for warmer days, but the spice of the Saison yeast keeps it interesting and makes a great brew for those “hot day, cold day”, wishy-washy seasonal transitions. This beer is smooth and refreshing with a moderate ABV that lets you enjoy more than one… You will be glad too because you’re going to want a few! WANT IT NOW? Just click here. ICE-CLEAR WEISSBIER: BREW SPECS Flavor: Wheat Original Gravity: 1.059 Final Gravity: 1.013 ABV: 6% SRM: (Color): 5 IBU: (Bitterness): 30 If you are a fan of wheat beers but are seeking something with something more comparable to the refreshing character of a lager, but with all the flavor of those wheat-based brews, look no further. This is a beer that until now, has not been well or easily replicated by home brewers lacking advanced filtration systems. Luckily, our Brew Master’s have some tricks up their sleeves! This beer hits the palate with a bouquet of fruit esters, typical of wheat beers but finishes clean and pairs beautifully with food or is great all by itself, too. With an aroma of noble hops and notes of banana, this wheat beer is a winner, and a solid ode to the German classic it pays tribute to! WANT IT NOW? Just click here. Cheers, Ashley
Read moreHops, What Are They, And How Do We Use Them in Beer? Part 2
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="1hnE-Jw6Q2s" video_title1="Hops, What Are They, And How Do We Use Them in Beer? Part 2" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} In part two of our hops video, we break down the best way to use your hops and how to get the results you're looking for at each stage. I think a good place to start is by addressing one of the most common hop questions I get is, “when do I know when to use my hops?” Well, that answer is dependent on the beer you are brewing and what your goals for flavor look like, as well of course, what ingredients you are planning to use. Once you know the general style and desired bitterness of your beer, you can begin considering whether you would be needing a high alpha acid hop or a low alpha acid hop. In most cases, that decision is relatively easy. If you are trying to brew a very bitter, hoppy style, it is usually the most efficient choice, to select a higher alpha acid, hop option. Alternatively, if you are planning on brewing something less bitter, it makes sense to select a hop with a lower amount of available alpha acids. As we briefly touched on earlier, one of the most common purposes for using hops is for bittering. We also discussed that Alpha acids that have been exposed to heat, or “isomerized” are the chemical components directly responsible for this bittering potential. The Perceived bitterness of a finished beer, created by the Alpha acids from the hops is referred to as IBU, or “International Bitterness Units”. While all hops contain alpha acids, some contain more than others but as brewers, we have the ability to manipulate the bitterness of the hops in our boil through 3 basic boil control parameters, they include Temperature of the boil, length of the boil, and gravity of the boil. Let us talk about the first, which is temperature. Now you cannot force a hop to exceed its bitterness beyond its inherent, natural Alpha acid content, but temperature plays a major part in the chemical changes that convert Humulone to Iso-humulone, the bitter version of itself. It is important to know that hops begin to isomerize at or above temperatures of 175 degrees Fahrenheit. At this temperature, your wort is generally not yet visually boiling, and it is here, that your hops offer the most gradual rate of isomerization, and longer, lower boils do tend to produce a smoother bittering character, compared to beers made with hops exposed to very high heat boils. The option a brewer chooses to take, depends again, on what he or she is attempting to achieve. A snappy and sharp West coast IPA might do better to have a higher heat addition, while something with a smooth but still apparent bitterness might need a lower temp boil. Next, we come to the duration of the boil, as we mentioned earlier, a longer boil can potentially extract more iso-alpha acids and even help to maintain a smoother type of bitterness depending on the temperature. Boil duration and its effect on isomerization, is the exact reason in brewing, that we employ hop schedules. A hop schedule, in case you were not already aware, refers to when in the boiling process and for how long each hop addition is added. For example, for a very bitter beer, a brewer may opt to add an addition of hops, very early on in the boil, and allow that addition to remaining in the boil for say, a 60-minute duration. In the same boil, the brewer may decide to make another addition of hops, later in the boiling process. A hop schedule always counts down, so if your total boil time is set for 60 minutes, but you are slated for hop additions at 60, 30, and 10, you would add your first addition at the top of 60 minutes, then the next addition when there are 30 minutes left of the boil and then the last addition on your schedule at 10 minutes of boil time remaining. Hop schedules help to build a more dynamic range of bitterness and flavors from either one single hop or multiple different hops. You may also choose to add multiple close together additions over a long period of time, to pull large amounts of smoother bitterness from your hops. A good commercial example of this method being used is Dog Fish Head’s, 120-minute IPA. Hopefully, you are starting to see now how to boil duration and temperature work hand in hand. Next, we move on to the 3rd parameter, boil gravity. You probably already know that “original gravity” or “OG” as we use it in brewing, refers to the relative density of the wort before it is fermented to produce beer, being chiefly dependent on the number of fermentable sugars in solution. It is regarded as a guide to the potential alcoholic strength of the finished beer. To put it very simply, “Gravity” refers to the amount of existing or remaining carbohydrates in wort or beer. So, what does that have to do with boiling hops, you might ask? The amount of sugar or “gravity” in your wort while boiling, has a direct impact on the expression of Iso-alpha acids from your hops. This means your boil gravity can help to control the bitterness in your finished brew. The rule of thumb with boil gravity is basically this; the less sugar you have in your wort while boiling your hops, the more bitter your wort ultimately has the potential to become, given the time and temperature parameters are also set up with this goal in mind. You have probably already figured out that the opposite is also, true. A wort boil that contains a high gravity, or more wort sugars, will be more flavor-forward and less potentially bitter. Higher gravity wort boils are often considered “less efficient” as they tend to require larger quantities of hops, in order to achieve more intense bitterness goals. For many homebrewers and even professional brewers alike, a large part of the thought they give regarding recipe formulation is to the delicate control of the synergistic relationship between these 3 primary boil parameters, that modulate bitterness and flavor from your hop additions. Now it is important to mention that the hopping methods I am discussing today, are not the only times or ways hops can be added, there are several options depending on how you brew, and what kind of system you are brewing on, but for the purposes of our application to primarily extract and partial mash Brewing, we are focusing on the two primary Hopping techniques, “Bittering/boil” hop additions like the ones we discussed earlier and “Dry hop/aroma additions”. We will discuss Dry hopping additions, next. So, what is a dry hop addition? Dry hopping is a relatively broadly used term that covers several types of hop additions during the fermentation process or immediately after the boil, rather than when the wort is being exposed to heat, in the boil, or in other pre boils, hop infusion processes. The primary purpose of “dry-hopping” is to impart the flavors and aromas of a particular hop, without drawing out bitterness from the process of isomerization. In most cases, you will see dry-hopping conducted toward the end of a beer’s fermentation process, or after the krausen on the beer starts to settle. There are two main reasons for this. The first reason has to do with maintaining the freshest hop character possible from the fermenter, to the imbiber, as the most delicious hop compounds, also tend to be the most volatile and are easily lost to the atmosphere through the release of C02, or with age. The second very big reason is a process called “biotransformation”, this, put simply means that during the most active part of fermentation also known as “krausen”, the yeast is typically producing larger amounts of a very manipulative little enzyme called “Beta-glucanase” now, not all yeasts make enough of it during early fermentation to catalyze noticeable biotransformation of hops, but the ones that do can end up changing the flavors of your hops, drastically in some cases. Some brewers opt to capitalize on this intentionally and are keenly aware of what the result will yield. When truly understood, it can be used as a tool to achieve specific flavor goals. Honestly, biotransformation in beer could probably be a topic of its own so we will not go too far down that rabbit hole, today. So, in summation, most “dry hopping” happens late in fermentation but not exclusively and provides the highest levels of aromatic, essential oil contribution. Hopefully, now you are feeling more empowered regarding your understanding of hops, what they are, and their use and contributions in the brewing process. If you are struggling to understand what your hop contributions might look like in a custom-designed recipe, I urge you to employ one of the many free calculators available online to homebrewers. Sometimes, it can be a bit of a learning curve to figure out how to enter specific extracts, but you can always contact us at the help desk, and we are happy to help you navigate and use them with your Cooper’s or Mr. Beer products. Alright Brewers, that just about wraps up our discussion on hops. I could probably make several episodes about hops, as this is such a vast brewing topic. So, if you have more questions about hops or would like to learn more about something specific, please let us know in the comments. If you missed the first installment of this episode, last week, check the link in the description so you can catch that. Have a great day everyone, and do not forget to Like, comment, and subscribe so we can keep bringing you more educational content, like this. Make sure you join us back here next week for more Brew Talk with Mr. Beer, with Robert. Cheers! Ashley
Read moreHops, What Are They, And How Do We Use Them in Beer? Part 1
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="pWKoJrVTDSI" video_title1="Hops, What Are They, And How Do We Use Them in Beer? Part 1" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} Hops are amazing and maybe a little mysterious. Everyone knows they are a part of beer but what exactly are they and how do they work so well in beer? We break it down in this week's episode of BrewTalk with Mr. Beer. First, let us talk about what hops are. Hops are the flowers of the Humulus lupulus plant, otherwise known as the “hop plant”. It comes from the relatively small botanical family known as Cannabaceae. Hops have been used for centuries as medicinal herbs but most of us are familiar with them through their use in beer. Hops harvested for purposes like brewing come from the female plant. These days the primary function of hops in beer is as a bittering and flavoring component. There’s evidence that hops began being used in beer this way away around 800 A.D., but their cultivation for usage by humans going back before 1,000 BC. In the days of old, hops were as much of a flavor component as they were a functional one. Besides imparting those characteristic citrus and herb flavors, hops also impart preservative and anti-fungal properties. As we mentioned earlier, we primarily use hops in brewing for their flavor and bitterness contributions. Thanks to the mass production of a variety of hop pellets, professional and homebrewers alike, can create a multitude of hop-centric brews, easily! There is even a growing list of vendors to fill the demand for fresh hops, requested by homebrewers. So, what is in a hop that makes it tick? Well if you have spent any time on the internet researching hops, you have probably stumbled on the words “Humulone” and “alpha acids”, right? Well, to start, Humulones ARE alpha acids. Alpha acids, when it comes to brewing, are one of the more important chemical components found in hops. You may have noticed when purchasing hops that the labeling includes an “AA percentage” (Alpha acid), this directly correlates to the bittering potential of that particular hop varietal, since the Alpha acid, humulone, is what becomes bitter when it is exposed to heat in the boil. Humulone that has been exposed to heat so that it becomes bitter, is known as “Iso-humulone” or “Iso alpha acids” because it has undergone the transformative process known as, “Isomerization.” Knowing the alpha acid percentage of a particular hop aids the brewer in hop selection that is appropriate for the specific flavor build. For example, a brewer may be building a recipe for a crispy and refreshing German lager, where a lower to moderate bitterness and hop aroma is desired, it would make sense in this instance, that the brewer would select a hop variety with a slightly lower bittering potential. Inversely, if your plan is to produce a bitter and hoppy IPA, you would likely select a hop variety that offers a higher percentage of alpha acids and therefore a higher bittering potential. Of course, a brewer may select a hop of a higher alpha acid variety for shorter boil times, to speed up production or for other reasons, which we will discuss later in this episode. The Alpha acids in hops also make them highly resistant to gram-positive bacteria, which is one of the attributes that originally made them popular, way-back-when. Humulone is found most abundantly in the glands of the hop flower known as the Lupulin glands. Commercial hop extracts are made from the contents of these glands. Many craft beers also boast using “lupulin wet hops” in order to impart as much fresh hop flavor into a beer as possible. (hop petals expose the Lupulin glands when parted) The next notable group of compounds found in hops is the “Beta acids”, otherwise broadly known as lupulones. Not only do these Beta acids contribute some flavor properties, but Lupulones also play a big role in the bacteriostatic nature of hops. The lupulones aromas in a hop are most apparent during the earlier and more active stages of fermentation. Unfortunately, because Lupulones are so Volatile, while you are catching lovely whiffs of them during fermentation, they are also escaping into the atmosphere. Beta acids, unlike alpha acids, do not require any heat for their extraction. Notable Beta acids found within hops include Lupulone, Colupulone, and Adlupulone. Beta acids are not known for their bitterness contribution, however, because Beta acids are initially insoluble, they can end up isomerizing over time in instances of extended aging and that can contribute to an unpleasant and cloying bitterness. Because Beta acids often do not become consequential, until much further down the road, many homebrewers do not think about them, but if flavor stability over time is important to you, paying attention to the Beta Acid percentages in your hops can be a good idea. Next, we come to the characteristic of hops that hits us first when giving them a good smell, the essential oils. Essential oils, also known as “terpenes,” are important because they provide all those great flavors and aroma qualities, we associate with hop-centric brews. Essential oils are responsible for most of those words you hear like “Grassy”, “piney”, “citrusy”, “earthy”, etc. They are also extremely volatile and sensitive to destruction through overexposure to heat, oxygen, and UV light. This is one of the primary reasons why a brewer will choose to add hops for their aroma contributions either late in the boil or as “dry hop” additions during fermentation. We will talk about how to make that work for you, in part two of this installment. You could easily justify saying that “essential oils from hops, give beer much of its character”, and you would not be wrong. So, given their importance, let’s give a little more attention to those Essential oils. There are up to 250 different types of essential oils within the hop plant, but some of them are more abundant than others and a portion of them do not offer any flavor contributions that we have discovered thus far. The most typically abundant essential oil found within hops is Humulene- Most of the flavor and aroma from this oil is most abundant when hops are added late in the boil, or through dry hopping because it degrades relatively rapidly. This chemical is generally very abundant in noble hops. Noble hops are varieties of high aroma (high levels of humulene) and lower in bitterness (low alpha acid). Some of the German Noble hops would include Tettenanger, Spalt, Hallertauer and Saaz, there also many modern blends, and variations of these hops available. Humulene’s aroma character is generally described as subtly earthy, musky, or herby. Myrcene, is another common EO found in hops, perhaps most abundantly in North American varieties. When added to late boil or even after, myrcene creates a characteristic citrus and pine aroma in beer. Varieties high in this are used in many heavily hopped, North American beers. Although this chemical also degrades quickly it is not quite as volatile as some of the others. Maintaining the integrity of those bright, Myrcene oils is one of the reasons it is always advised to drink Hop-centric beers, as fresh as possible. Some examples of hops that are high in Myrcene are Simcoe, Amarillo, Citra, and Northern Brewer, just to name a few. Bay leaves are also high in Myrcene, which explains why some individuals are reminded of Bay when they smell certain varieties of hops. Less abundant, but still important we have an essential oil called Caryophyllene, which contributes a “spicy” flavor, similar to humulene. You can find high levels of this Essential oil in cloves, as well. Vanguard and East Kent Goldings hops often contain perceptible levels of this Terpene. The last essential oil we will cover is called Farensene and is not known to add much aroma or flavor to beer because of how incredibly volatile and hydrophobic it is, but it is usually woody in the aroma. It commonly makes up a small percentage of the oils in the hop, but some varieties contain higher amounts. Unfortunately, after boiling and fermentation, this Essential oil is nearly non-existent in the finished beer. More and more, new hop varieties are being created to enhance all the different flavors and characteristics that are possible within a hop cone. Where 15 years ago, only limited varieties of hops were widely available to home brewers, especially, it is now possible to obtain hops that fit nearly any set of nuanced flavor guidelines that one could think of. It REALLY helps to know what kind of flavors a specific hop type contributes when deciding how to design a beer around it. Understanding your ingredients is one of the most powerful tools for success in your brewing arsenal. Cheers! Ashley
Read moreEasy Bake Beer Cake Recipe
Cake and beer, are two things that top many people’s “favorite’s list”, on their own. So, what happens when we combine beer and cake together? Well, REALLY delicious things. Think you are not a baker? Well, if you can crack some eggs, some beer and open a package of cake mix…You my friend, are baker enough! Below you can find two variations of my VERY easy, “Box-Mix-Beer-cake” recipe! All you must do is figure out what version to make, and what beer to use! You can use beer leftover in your fermenter, or already packaged brew. Either way, I do recommend leaving the hoppy beers out of this one, unless “hoppy cake” is your kind of thing. Vanilla and Ale version What you will need: 1 (3.5 ounces) package instant vanilla pudding mix 1 cup beer (I recommend Classic American light, golden ale, Aztec Mexican Cerveza, or Canadian blonde. You could also use any similar recipes or commercial beers.) ¼ cup vegetable oil 4 eggs 1 box vanilla cake mix Sugar-beer glaze (recipe below) OR Frosting, fruit, or powdered sugar to your liking. How to make It: Preheat your oven to 350 degrees Spray a non-stick 10inch Bundt pan with non-stick spray Combine all ingredients in a large bowl until creamy and incorporated. Dump mix in the cake pan and bake for 40-50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center, comes out clean. Allow cake to cool completely before removing it from the pan and top with your desired fixings! While cake cools, if you wish to use it you can make your Sugar and beer glaze. Combine 2-4 Tablespoons of powdered sugar with a half teaspoon of beer at a time, while stirring until a consistency that can be “drizzled” is achieved, but go slow with the liquid, you can easily make it too runny. Drizzle the glaze over the cooled cake. I like this glaze, combined with the addition of fresh fruit. Chocolate and Ale version 1 (18.25 ounce) package chocolate cake mix 4 eggs 1/3 cup vegetable oil 1 AND ¼ cups Dark or Amber Beer (I suggest St. Patrick’s, American Porter, Oktoberfest or Bewitched Amber. Any similar recipes or commercial beers will do, too.) How to make it: Preheat oven to 350 degrees Grease a 13x9 inch pan or alternatively, 2, 9-inch pans with non-stick cooking spray Combine all ingredients in a large bowl, stir until smooth and incorporated. Dump mix in a cake pan(s) and bake for 30-40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center, comes out clean. Allow cake to cool completely before removing it from the pan and topping with your desired topping! Just about any chocolate frosting recipe or pre-made brand will work with this cake. Dark red berries are a decadent option if you are watching your added sugar intake. If you choose to make this one in a 13x9 rectangular pan, do not worry about removing it! Just make it easy on yourself by allowing the cake to cool and frosting it in the pan. But I understand if you want to be fancy! Don’t forget to watch your cake, as different ovens can vary in cooking times, and burnt cake kind of…stinks! Now, Go Forward and MAKE SOME BEER CAKE! CHEERS! Ashley
Read moreHow long will your beer last in plastic bottles?
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="xYKgAz9C_Ac" video_title1="How long will your beer last in plastic bottles?" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} A question we see quite often is how long can I condition my beer for in my bottles? Depending on what types of bottles you are using that time may vary. At Mr. Beer, we sell our PET 740mL bottles which are great. They are lightweight, shatterproof. They are a perfect size so one 740mL bottle is about 2 12oz beers. Plus, you can perform the squeeze test on them to tell if they are carbonated on not, which is very useful! However, if you are looking for long term aging of beer, 6 months or longer then they might not work so well. When looking at long term storage of beer, so if you want to condition it for 6 months or longer then we would suggest using something other than plastic bottles. What will happen is that over long periods of time oxygen can start to get into the bottle and this will start to oxidize your beer and it will also lose carbonation. Now, over time this will also happen with glass bottles but that time frame is much longer. So if you have some big beers that you want to age for 6 months or longer then we suggest using glass bottles when you bottle. Anything under 6 months your pet bottles will work just fine. They are great for a number of things, but long term beer storage is not one of them. Cheers, Robert
Read moreHow to tell if your beer is done fermenting?
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="LaGbo59eChs" video_title1="How to tell if your beer is fermenting?" video_description1="When your brewing your first batch you want to make sure you did it correctly and that your wort is fermenting away and turning into great tasting beer. So we thought it would be helpful to provide you with some ways to check if your beer is fermenting in this episode of BrewTalk with Mr. Beer." video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} When your brewing your first batch you want to make sure you did it correctly and that your wort is fermenting away and turning into great tasting beer. However, if you have never brewed before you might not know how to tell if your beer is actually fermenting. So we wanted to discuss some ways you can tell if your beer is fermenting away as it should. In the first 72 hours of fermentation is when you will see the most action in your brew. After that it will look like not much is going on, but rest assured your little yeasts are still working away eating up all those complex sugars that are left! There are two main things that we tell our customers to look for if they are unsure if their beer is fermenting or not. The first would be if you see some bubbles or foam on the top of your beer in the fermenter. This will be most noticeable in the first 72 hours. It is referred to as krausen. Once the primary stage of fermentation is over this will usually go away. The next thing to check for is to look at the bottom of your fermenter and look for any type of sediment build-up. This build-up is called Trub. Trub is a byproduct of the fermentation process and is a sign that you got a good fermentation going. These are the main two ways to check if your beer is fermenting by just looking at it. One other way to check would be if you are using a hydrometer you can just take a reading if you are unsure. If the gravity reading is lower than your starting gravity then you are good to go. Cheers, Robert
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Beef and Beer Slow Cooker Stew
The Christmas decorations are put away, post-traumatic stress from Christmas traffic is starting to fade and most people are breathing a sigh of relief that the chaos of the holiday season has come to an end. It is the perfect time to finally relax, with a tall glass of brew and a nice and hearty, easy to make Beef and Beer, stew! I do not know about you, but stews and soups are some of my favorite comfort foods to make and eat when the weather is cold, and the days are still short. On the other hand, my favorite comfort beverage to have…All the time, is beer. One thing that makes this stew special, is that you can incorporate your own homebrew but it but still turns out awesome with commercially produced beer, as well. So, if you are like me, and you also have “excellent taste”, follow along and give this recipe a try! You will not be sorry. Here is what you will need: 4 slices of bacon- browned and drained on a paper towel. 2 Lbs of beef stew meat, cubed. Salt to taste Pepper to taste 2 tablespoons of butter 2 cups carrots peeled and cut into approximately ¼ inch thick rings. 1 medium yellow or red onion, chopped evenly. 3-4 cloves of garlic minced finely. 1-2 bay leaves (you could also use other herbs here if you prefer) 1 teaspoon dried thyme. 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 2 cups of a beer of your choice (I recommend using one with a moderate to low hop presence) 2 Tablespoons corn starch ¼ cup of water Slow Cooker How to make it: 1) Add the butter to a medium-sized skillet on medium heat, and cook the beef through until lightly browned, discarding excess liquid as needed. Once cooked, season with a couple of pinches of salt and pepper, but not too much as we will season it again, later. 2) Next, transfer the cooked and drain beef to a 5 Qt slow cooker. Add the carrots, bacon, onion, garlic, and bay leaf. In a separate bowl, combine the beer, Worcestershire sauce and thyme then pour over beef and vegetables in the slow cooker. 3) Cover and cook on low for 5-1/2 to 6 hours or until meat and vegetables are tender. Remove bay leaves. 4) After cooking time has elapsed, combine cornstarch and ¼ cup water until no longer clumpy. Gradually stir into the slow cooker. Cover, and allow the mixture to thicken for 30 more minutes. You can add up to 1 more tablespoon of cornstarch if you need the stew to be thicker. Once thickened, season with salt and pepper to taste. You could also add other spices, I love a little hot sauce! The best way to serve this stew is with your own homemade Trub bread! You can find that recipe in the blog! You can also enjoy this over noodles or rice with a sprinkle of your favorite cheese! So, what are you waiting for? Fire up that crockpot, chop some veggies and make some BEEF AND BEER STEW!! *Takes a bit bite of stew* “OOH hot” CHEERS! Ashley
Read moreWhen is the earliest you can bottle your beer?
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="XtIJ7aiCLCI" video_title1="When is the earliest you can bottle your beer?" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} When you're brewing up that first batch of beer, the hardest part is the waiting. Actually, I think that is the hardest part of any batch your brewing is just the wait. So we wanted to break down what is the earliest you can bottle your beer. Now, this is going to depend on if you have a Hydrometer or not. The hydrometer helps you know exactly when your beer is done and we will get into how that works later. So if you don’t have a hydrometer the way to know your beer is done is to give it the old taste test. If it tastes like flat beer then you are pretty much good to bottle. With our basic Refill instructions, we tell you to taste test at 10 days then bottle if it is flat. That is a good rule of thumb. I would not push it any quicker than that. But, if you just cant wait you might be able to bottle on day 7. The majority of fermentation is done in the first 72 hours. So if your temperatures are spot on and you have healthy yeast there is a chance your beer could be done on day 7 of fermentation. The best way to know again is the taste test, so if you get sweetness on day 7 then let it go to day 10 and try it again. Once it is flat then bottle. Now, if you have a hydrometer that will help you know exactly when your beer is done. I think the only downside to using a hydrometer is that you do lose beer. Every time you take a reading that is beer out of the keg. After a couple of readings, you could wind of bottling one less bottle of beer than you normally would. When using a hydrometer to know if your beer is done, you are looking for the final gravity. So what you would do is take a reading on day 7 and then take another reading 24 hours later. If the gravity has not changed then you are ready to bottle. If it has changed then you need to wait 10 days and check it again. So you can bottle your beer in just 7 days. This applies to our refills, if you are brewing one of our Recipes follow the brewing time that is associated with that recipe. However, if you are using a hydrometer then you can always check your beer and find the exact moment when it is done. Who knows it may knock off a few days in the brewing process. Cheers, Robert
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