The Brew Times
Hops, What Are They, And How Do We Use Them in Beer? Part 1
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="pWKoJrVTDSI" video_title1="Hops, What Are They, And How Do We Use Them in Beer? Part 1" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} Hops are amazing and maybe a little mysterious. Everyone knows they are a part of beer but what exactly are they and how do they work so well in beer? We break it down in this week's episode of BrewTalk with Mr. Beer. First, let us talk about what hops are. Hops are the flowers of the Humulus lupulus plant, otherwise known as the “hop plant”. It comes from the relatively small botanical family known as Cannabaceae. Hops have been used for centuries as medicinal herbs but most of us are familiar with them through their use in beer. Hops harvested for purposes like brewing come from the female plant. These days the primary function of hops in beer is as a bittering and flavoring component. There’s evidence that hops began being used in beer this way away around 800 A.D., but their cultivation for usage by humans going back before 1,000 BC. In the days of old, hops were as much of a flavor component as they were a functional one. Besides imparting those characteristic citrus and herb flavors, hops also impart preservative and anti-fungal properties. As we mentioned earlier, we primarily use hops in brewing for their flavor and bitterness contributions. Thanks to the mass production of a variety of hop pellets, professional and homebrewers alike, can create a multitude of hop-centric brews, easily! There is even a growing list of vendors to fill the demand for fresh hops, requested by homebrewers. So, what is in a hop that makes it tick? Well if you have spent any time on the internet researching hops, you have probably stumbled on the words “Humulone” and “alpha acids”, right? Well, to start, Humulones ARE alpha acids. Alpha acids, when it comes to brewing, are one of the more important chemical components found in hops. You may have noticed when purchasing hops that the labeling includes an “AA percentage” (Alpha acid), this directly correlates to the bittering potential of that particular hop varietal, since the Alpha acid, humulone, is what becomes bitter when it is exposed to heat in the boil. Humulone that has been exposed to heat so that it becomes bitter, is known as “Iso-humulone” or “Iso alpha acids” because it has undergone the transformative process known as, “Isomerization.” Knowing the alpha acid percentage of a particular hop aids the brewer in hop selection that is appropriate for the specific flavor build. For example, a brewer may be building a recipe for a crispy and refreshing German lager, where a lower to moderate bitterness and hop aroma is desired, it would make sense in this instance, that the brewer would select a hop variety with a slightly lower bittering potential. Inversely, if your plan is to produce a bitter and hoppy IPA, you would likely select a hop variety that offers a higher percentage of alpha acids and therefore a higher bittering potential. Of course, a brewer may select a hop of a higher alpha acid variety for shorter boil times, to speed up production or for other reasons, which we will discuss later in this episode. The Alpha acids in hops also make them highly resistant to gram-positive bacteria, which is one of the attributes that originally made them popular, way-back-when. Humulone is found most abundantly in the glands of the hop flower known as the Lupulin glands. Commercial hop extracts are made from the contents of these glands. Many craft beers also boast using “lupulin wet hops” in order to impart as much fresh hop flavor into a beer as possible. (hop petals expose the Lupulin glands when parted) The next notable group of compounds found in hops is the “Beta acids”, otherwise broadly known as lupulones. Not only do these Beta acids contribute some flavor properties, but Lupulones also play a big role in the bacteriostatic nature of hops. The lupulones aromas in a hop are most apparent during the earlier and more active stages of fermentation. Unfortunately, because Lupulones are so Volatile, while you are catching lovely whiffs of them during fermentation, they are also escaping into the atmosphere. Beta acids, unlike alpha acids, do not require any heat for their extraction. Notable Beta acids found within hops include Lupulone, Colupulone, and Adlupulone. Beta acids are not known for their bitterness contribution, however, because Beta acids are initially insoluble, they can end up isomerizing over time in instances of extended aging and that can contribute to an unpleasant and cloying bitterness. Because Beta acids often do not become consequential, until much further down the road, many homebrewers do not think about them, but if flavor stability over time is important to you, paying attention to the Beta Acid percentages in your hops can be a good idea. Next, we come to the characteristic of hops that hits us first when giving them a good smell, the essential oils. Essential oils, also known as “terpenes,” are important because they provide all those great flavors and aroma qualities, we associate with hop-centric brews. Essential oils are responsible for most of those words you hear like “Grassy”, “piney”, “citrusy”, “earthy”, etc. They are also extremely volatile and sensitive to destruction through overexposure to heat, oxygen, and UV light. This is one of the primary reasons why a brewer will choose to add hops for their aroma contributions either late in the boil or as “dry hop” additions during fermentation. We will talk about how to make that work for you, in part two of this installment. You could easily justify saying that “essential oils from hops, give beer much of its character”, and you would not be wrong. So, given their importance, let’s give a little more attention to those Essential oils. There are up to 250 different types of essential oils within the hop plant, but some of them are more abundant than others and a portion of them do not offer any flavor contributions that we have discovered thus far. The most typically abundant essential oil found within hops is Humulene- Most of the flavor and aroma from this oil is most abundant when hops are added late in the boil, or through dry hopping because it degrades relatively rapidly. This chemical is generally very abundant in noble hops. Noble hops are varieties of high aroma (high levels of humulene) and lower in bitterness (low alpha acid). Some of the German Noble hops would include Tettenanger, Spalt, Hallertauer and Saaz, there also many modern blends, and variations of these hops available. Humulene’s aroma character is generally described as subtly earthy, musky, or herby. Myrcene, is another common EO found in hops, perhaps most abundantly in North American varieties. When added to late boil or even after, myrcene creates a characteristic citrus and pine aroma in beer. Varieties high in this are used in many heavily hopped, North American beers. Although this chemical also degrades quickly it is not quite as volatile as some of the others. Maintaining the integrity of those bright, Myrcene oils is one of the reasons it is always advised to drink Hop-centric beers, as fresh as possible. Some examples of hops that are high in Myrcene are Simcoe, Amarillo, Citra, and Northern Brewer, just to name a few. Bay leaves are also high in Myrcene, which explains why some individuals are reminded of Bay when they smell certain varieties of hops. Less abundant, but still important we have an essential oil called Caryophyllene, which contributes a “spicy” flavor, similar to humulene. You can find high levels of this Essential oil in cloves, as well. Vanguard and East Kent Goldings hops often contain perceptible levels of this Terpene. The last essential oil we will cover is called Farensene and is not known to add much aroma or flavor to beer because of how incredibly volatile and hydrophobic it is, but it is usually woody in the aroma. It commonly makes up a small percentage of the oils in the hop, but some varieties contain higher amounts. Unfortunately, after boiling and fermentation, this Essential oil is nearly non-existent in the finished beer. More and more, new hop varieties are being created to enhance all the different flavors and characteristics that are possible within a hop cone. Where 15 years ago, only limited varieties of hops were widely available to home brewers, especially, it is now possible to obtain hops that fit nearly any set of nuanced flavor guidelines that one could think of. It REALLY helps to know what kind of flavors a specific hop type contributes when deciding how to design a beer around it. Understanding your ingredients is one of the most powerful tools for success in your brewing arsenal. Cheers! Ashley
Read moreThe Brew Times
Easy Bake Beer Cake Recipe
Cake and beer, are two things that top many people’s “favorite’s list”, on their own. So, what happens when we combine beer and cake together? Well, REALLY delicious things. Think you are not a baker? Well, if you can crack some eggs, some beer and open a package of cake mix…You my friend, are baker enough! Below you can find two variations of my VERY easy, “Box-Mix-Beer-cake” recipe! All you must do is figure out what version to make, and what beer to use! You can use beer leftover in your fermenter, or already packaged brew. Either way, I do recommend leaving the hoppy beers out of this one, unless “hoppy cake” is your kind of thing. Vanilla and Ale version What you will need: 1 (3.5 ounces) package instant vanilla pudding mix 1 cup beer (I recommend Classic American light, golden ale, Aztec Mexican Cerveza, or Canadian blonde. You could also use any similar recipes or commercial beers.) ¼ cup vegetable oil 4 eggs 1 box vanilla cake mix Sugar-beer glaze (recipe below) OR Frosting, fruit, or powdered sugar to your liking. How to make It: Preheat your oven to 350 degrees Spray a non-stick 10inch Bundt pan with non-stick spray Combine all ingredients in a large bowl until creamy and incorporated. Dump mix in the cake pan and bake for 40-50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center, comes out clean. Allow cake to cool completely before removing it from the pan and top with your desired fixings! While cake cools, if you wish to use it you can make your Sugar and beer glaze. Combine 2-4 Tablespoons of powdered sugar with a half teaspoon of beer at a time, while stirring until a consistency that can be “drizzled” is achieved, but go slow with the liquid, you can easily make it too runny. Drizzle the glaze over the cooled cake. I like this glaze, combined with the addition of fresh fruit. Chocolate and Ale version 1 (18.25 ounce) package chocolate cake mix 4 eggs 1/3 cup vegetable oil 1 AND ¼ cups Dark or Amber Beer (I suggest St. Patrick’s, American Porter, Oktoberfest or Bewitched Amber. Any similar recipes or commercial beers will do, too.) How to make it: Preheat oven to 350 degrees Grease a 13x9 inch pan or alternatively, 2, 9-inch pans with non-stick cooking spray Combine all ingredients in a large bowl, stir until smooth and incorporated. Dump mix in a cake pan(s) and bake for 30-40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center, comes out clean. Allow cake to cool completely before removing it from the pan and topping with your desired topping! Just about any chocolate frosting recipe or pre-made brand will work with this cake. Dark red berries are a decadent option if you are watching your added sugar intake. If you choose to make this one in a 13x9 rectangular pan, do not worry about removing it! Just make it easy on yourself by allowing the cake to cool and frosting it in the pan. But I understand if you want to be fancy! Don’t forget to watch your cake, as different ovens can vary in cooking times, and burnt cake kind of…stinks! Now, Go Forward and MAKE SOME BEER CAKE! CHEERS! Ashley
Read moreHow long will your beer last in plastic bottles?
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="xYKgAz9C_Ac" video_title1="How long will your beer last in plastic bottles?" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} A question we see quite often is how long can I condition my beer for in my bottles? Depending on what types of bottles you are using that time may vary. At Mr. Beer, we sell our PET 740mL bottles which are great. They are lightweight, shatterproof. They are a perfect size so one 740mL bottle is about 2 12oz beers. Plus, you can perform the squeeze test on them to tell if they are carbonated on not, which is very useful! However, if you are looking for long term aging of beer, 6 months or longer then they might not work so well. When looking at long term storage of beer, so if you want to condition it for 6 months or longer then we would suggest using something other than plastic bottles. What will happen is that over long periods of time oxygen can start to get into the bottle and this will start to oxidize your beer and it will also lose carbonation. Now, over time this will also happen with glass bottles but that time frame is much longer. So if you have some big beers that you want to age for 6 months or longer then we suggest using glass bottles when you bottle. Anything under 6 months your pet bottles will work just fine. They are great for a number of things, but long term beer storage is not one of them. Cheers, Robert
Read moreHow to tell if your beer is done fermenting?
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="LaGbo59eChs" video_title1="How to tell if your beer is fermenting?" video_description1="When your brewing your first batch you want to make sure you did it correctly and that your wort is fermenting away and turning into great tasting beer. So we thought it would be helpful to provide you with some ways to check if your beer is fermenting in this episode of BrewTalk with Mr. Beer." video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} When your brewing your first batch you want to make sure you did it correctly and that your wort is fermenting away and turning into great tasting beer. However, if you have never brewed before you might not know how to tell if your beer is actually fermenting. So we wanted to discuss some ways you can tell if your beer is fermenting away as it should. In the first 72 hours of fermentation is when you will see the most action in your brew. After that it will look like not much is going on, but rest assured your little yeasts are still working away eating up all those complex sugars that are left! There are two main things that we tell our customers to look for if they are unsure if their beer is fermenting or not. The first would be if you see some bubbles or foam on the top of your beer in the fermenter. This will be most noticeable in the first 72 hours. It is referred to as krausen. Once the primary stage of fermentation is over this will usually go away. The next thing to check for is to look at the bottom of your fermenter and look for any type of sediment build-up. This build-up is called Trub. Trub is a byproduct of the fermentation process and is a sign that you got a good fermentation going. These are the main two ways to check if your beer is fermenting by just looking at it. One other way to check would be if you are using a hydrometer you can just take a reading if you are unsure. If the gravity reading is lower than your starting gravity then you are good to go. Cheers, Robert
Read moreBeef and Beer Slow Cooker Stew
The Christmas decorations are put away, post-traumatic stress from Christmas traffic is starting to fade and most people are breathing a sigh of relief that the chaos of the holiday season has come to an end. It is the perfect time to finally relax, with a tall glass of brew and a nice and hearty, easy to make Beef and Beer, stew! I do not know about you, but stews and soups are some of my favorite comfort foods to make and eat when the weather is cold, and the days are still short. On the other hand, my favorite comfort beverage to have…All the time, is beer. One thing that makes this stew special, is that you can incorporate your own homebrew but it but still turns out awesome with commercially produced beer, as well. So, if you are like me, and you also have “excellent taste”, follow along and give this recipe a try! You will not be sorry. Here is what you will need: 4 slices of bacon- browned and drained on a paper towel. 2 Lbs of beef stew meat, cubed. Salt to taste Pepper to taste 2 tablespoons of butter 2 cups carrots peeled and cut into approximately ¼ inch thick rings. 1 medium yellow or red onion, chopped evenly. 3-4 cloves of garlic minced finely. 1-2 bay leaves (you could also use other herbs here if you prefer) 1 teaspoon dried thyme. 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 2 cups of a beer of your choice (I recommend using one with a moderate to low hop presence) 2 Tablespoons corn starch ¼ cup of water Slow Cooker How to make it: 1) Add the butter to a medium-sized skillet on medium heat, and cook the beef through until lightly browned, discarding excess liquid as needed. Once cooked, season with a couple of pinches of salt and pepper, but not too much as we will season it again, later. 2) Next, transfer the cooked and drain beef to a 5 Qt slow cooker. Add the carrots, bacon, onion, garlic, and bay leaf. In a separate bowl, combine the beer, Worcestershire sauce and thyme then pour over beef and vegetables in the slow cooker. 3) Cover and cook on low for 5-1/2 to 6 hours or until meat and vegetables are tender. Remove bay leaves. 4) After cooking time has elapsed, combine cornstarch and ¼ cup water until no longer clumpy. Gradually stir into the slow cooker. Cover, and allow the mixture to thicken for 30 more minutes. You can add up to 1 more tablespoon of cornstarch if you need the stew to be thicker. Once thickened, season with salt and pepper to taste. You could also add other spices, I love a little hot sauce! The best way to serve this stew is with your own homemade Trub bread! You can find that recipe in the blog! You can also enjoy this over noodles or rice with a sprinkle of your favorite cheese! So, what are you waiting for? Fire up that crockpot, chop some veggies and make some BEEF AND BEER STEW!! *Takes a bit bite of stew* “OOH hot” CHEERS! Ashley
Read moreWhen is the earliest you can bottle your beer?
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="XtIJ7aiCLCI" video_title1="When is the earliest you can bottle your beer?" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} When you're brewing up that first batch of beer, the hardest part is the waiting. Actually, I think that is the hardest part of any batch your brewing is just the wait. So we wanted to break down what is the earliest you can bottle your beer. Now, this is going to depend on if you have a Hydrometer or not. The hydrometer helps you know exactly when your beer is done and we will get into how that works later. So if you don’t have a hydrometer the way to know your beer is done is to give it the old taste test. If it tastes like flat beer then you are pretty much good to bottle. With our basic Refill instructions, we tell you to taste test at 10 days then bottle if it is flat. That is a good rule of thumb. I would not push it any quicker than that. But, if you just cant wait you might be able to bottle on day 7. The majority of fermentation is done in the first 72 hours. So if your temperatures are spot on and you have healthy yeast there is a chance your beer could be done on day 7 of fermentation. The best way to know again is the taste test, so if you get sweetness on day 7 then let it go to day 10 and try it again. Once it is flat then bottle. Now, if you have a hydrometer that will help you know exactly when your beer is done. I think the only downside to using a hydrometer is that you do lose beer. Every time you take a reading that is beer out of the keg. After a couple of readings, you could wind of bottling one less bottle of beer than you normally would. When using a hydrometer to know if your beer is done, you are looking for the final gravity. So what you would do is take a reading on day 7 and then take another reading 24 hours later. If the gravity has not changed then you are ready to bottle. If it has changed then you need to wait 10 days and check it again. So you can bottle your beer in just 7 days. This applies to our refills, if you are brewing one of our Recipes follow the brewing time that is associated with that recipe. However, if you are using a hydrometer then you can always check your beer and find the exact moment when it is done. Who knows it may knock off a few days in the brewing process. Cheers, Robert
Read moreFirst Time Brewer FAQs
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="g8LEilEyr5k" video_title1="First Time Brewer FAQs" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} When you are brewing your first batch of beer you will have a ton of questions. So we thought it would be helpful to answer some of the most frequently asked questions for the beginner brewer. How do I open my Mr. Beer can? Something that we get quite often. You will open your can of HME from the bottom so make sure the label is upside down when you go to open. It is very difficult to open the can from the top where the yeast packet is. How important is sanitization? It is extremely important! If this process gets messed up it can affect your entire brew. Bad sanitation practices can lead to a bad beer which leads to a bad homebrewing experience. This is one of the most critical parts of brewing and something you want to make sure you are doing correctly. How to clean your fermenter after you bottle your beer? You always want to make sure that you clean your fermenter after you bottle your beer. The best way is to use unscented soap and a soft cloth. You never want to use anything abrasive that could scratch the inside of your fermenter. You can also use Oxy Clean Free & Clear or we sell a brewery wash on our website that works wonders. But always make sure to clean your fermenter when you are done brewing. How can I tell if my beer is fermenting? During the 1st 24 hours, you might not see much action going on in your fermenter and that is totally fine. It can take 48-72 hours for you to see the primary or most active stage of fermentation take place. You will see bubbles on top of your beer during this part. However, you may miss it and it looks like nothing is going on in your fermenter but there is! Always check the bottom of the fermenter, if you see some sediment start to build up at the bottom then you know your beer is fermenting and you are good to go. What is that sediment at the bottom of my fermenter and bottles? That is what is called Trub and is a by-product of the fermentation process. It is always a good thing to see. It means your beer has fermented. You will also see it in your bottles and this is from the natural carbonation process. Some people choose not to drink the last little bit others do. It does not hurt you, it may just give you a little gas. How important is fermentation temperature? Extremely important! Too warm and you can get off-flavors in your beer and too cold the yeast might not ferment all the sugar. Yeast can work in a wide range of temperatures. We have found that we get the best results in our brew room fermenting at 70-72 degrees. This is for all yeasts except for lager yeasts of course. The best way to keep track of this is just to get a stick-on thermometer and put it on your fermenter. Cheers, Robert
Read moreIs there a difference between using carbonation drops and regular sugar?
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="0Vu2C3EREIY" video_title1="Is there a difference between using carbonation drops and regular sugar?" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} A lot of people swear by carbonation drops, and others don’t see a need in using them. A question that I saw the other day was asking if you can tell a difference in your beer between using one or the other? The short answer to this question is no, you cannot. Or at least it would be very difficult to tell. It such a small amount of sugar that you are adding to the bottles that it's not going to have a big impact on your beer. The main reason for carbonation drops is their ease of use. When using our Mr. Beer 740mL bottles you just drop 2 in the bottle and your good to go. That’s it, no measuring or fussing with sugar. Now we have heard that carbonation drops can help with head retention in some cases, but that is often hard to tell between 2 fully carbonation and well-made beers. So I think it is just a matter of perception but you really can't tell the difference between using carbonation drops and sugar when it comes to bottling. But I think what everyone can agree on is carbonation drops sure make the bottling process a whole lot easier. Cheers, Robert
Read moreA little holiday cheer to spruce up your beer
AHHHHH the holidays! It is the time of year where many brewers and drinkers a-like are seeking to either brew and or imbibe beers favored with all manner or seasonably appropriate ingredients. So, what happens if you want to drink a beer flavored with a Holiday edge, but you missed the boat on brewing that “cinnamon amber” or that “S’mores stout”? Do not worry, the bartender in me has you covered. These tips are also a great way to incorporate a food tasting element into your experience, or that of your party guests! Today I am sharing with you some of my favorite ways to garnish your beer, once it is already in your glass! Below are a few fun and easy holiday additions you can make to your beer/glass at serving time: Rimmed Pint Glasses: One of the easiest things you can do to spruce up a beer, is to serve it in an appropriately rimmed glass, not only is it very simple to do, but the possibilities for options are also nearly unlimited. Try these fun combinations, just to see what you think! Small, rimmed, plastic serving cups also make a fun and impressive looking way to share several samples of beer with your holiday party guests. Chocolate candy cane rim: Add a drizzle of chocolate syrup to the rim of your beer glass. Next, hold your beer glass sideways and spoon crushed candy canes, generously over the rim of your glass so that the candy bits stick to the chocolate. I find this combination pairs best with a good stout, or porter. Top it with whip cream for a little something “extra”. Graham cracker rim: You may have seen this one before! Tray rimming your glass with chocolate or strawberry syrup and then dip or sprinkle your rim with crushed graham cracker! This is another great one for those dark winter brews and dessert beers! Cinnamon sugar rim: This one always reminds me of eating delicious cinnamon toast as a kid! I love to drizzle the glass with a bit of honey and dip the glass in a mixture of cinnamon and raw sugar. This rim lends itself well to porters and stouts but it’s delicious with a biscuity amber too! Garnishes and Toppings: A quick garnish or topping is a nice way to add some festive cheer to that beer! Plus, it is a good way to add a pairing element to your beer drinking experience…. Who does not like a beer AND a snack? Here are a couple of suggestions to get you off the ground! Toasted marshmallows on a toothpick: Pair this one with a chocolate and graham cracker rim, and you have got yourself the perfect garnish for a “s’mores” stout. You will end enjoy taking a chomp of toasty, melty, marshmallows between sips! Donut holes: I love garnishing beer glasses with these! They are inexpensive and come in many flavors. Make a small cut with a knife and slip the donut right onto the rim of the glass…. BOOM, instant pairing! Who needs lime wedges when you have bite-sized donuts? Whipped Cream: A generous heap of whip cream with a sprinkle of cinnamon or cocoa Makes a wonderful topping for a large variety of beers! Now you may be rolling your eyes at me right now…. “Ashley, how could you?” Well friend, tis the season to break some my “purity” rules when it comes to drinking beer. Sometimes you just got to, kick off your shoes, and have some fun! The rules will still be there when you’re done! NOW, go forward Holiday drinkers, AND BE MERRY! Cheers! Ashley
Read moreThe 5 benefits of brewing with hopped malt extract
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="IAp29Pa93Gs" video_title1="The 5 benefits of brewing with hopped malt extract" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} Like anything, there are some pros and cons. Brewing with hopped malt extract is a great way to brew and one of the best ways in my opinion. So, we wanted to break down the top 5 benefits of brewing with hopped malt extract and then what we think is its major drawback. Saves Time When brewing with hopped malt extract you are going to cut a large amount of time out of the brewing process. You are taking your brew day from being 4-8 hours long and cutting it down to roughly 30 minutes. Now you are not going to lose any taste or flavor in your beer, you’re just cutting back on the time it takes to brew. With HME the mashing of the grains and boiling of hops and all that is done already. So you are skipping that step in the brewing process. That is how you are cutting out time. Now if you want to add some grains and hops to your beer then you can do that with your HME as a base and still take hours off the brewing process. All in all brewing with HME just saves time without sacrificing quality. Saves Space With brewing with Hopped Malt Extract, especially with Mr. Beer, you are reducing the amount of equipment you need and space your fermenter takes up. All you need to brew are common kitchen items. When brewing using other methods, you will need additional pots, buckets, and tubes. It’s a lot more initial investment in equipment and a lot more items you will need to store. More Efficient Brews When brewing with all grain one factor you need to worry about is how much efficiency you are getting from your brew. To get a good efficiency you need to hold your mash at an exact temperature, with a specific amount of water for a specific amount of time. If one of these is off then you will get the maximum efficiency from your brew. So your ABV will not be as high and some of the malty flavors may not be as present. With brewing with HME, this step is already precocity done for you so it's one less thing you have to worry about. As long as you are mixing your ingredients thoroughly you are going to always have an efficient brew. Consistency As I have mentioned there are a lot of variables when brewing with all-grain. When brewing with HME you are just about guaranteed to get a great beer every single time. Removing all the boil temps, boiling times, transfers, etc. you are reducing the variables where something can go wrong. If one of these factors is off, then you could get a bad beer. With HME a lot of those variables have already been done so you just have to follow our basic brewing instructions and you will get great tasting beer every single time. Encouragement The last one is just the encouragement to continue brewing. If you spend $100’s on equipment, and 8 hours brewing a batch of beer and it comes our terrible you might not ever do it again. While brewing with HME all of the difficult variables are accounted for and the setup cost is just the initial kit purchase and you can brew great tasking beer every time. 1 Major Drawback Now the one major drawback to brewing with HME is the color. Beers brewed with HME will always tend to be darker than they should be. This is a result from when the wort is condensed down to syrup it can darken slightly. So the effect of that is your beers are always going to be slightly darker. This is not a big deal when brewing stouts and porters but when brewing lagers or IPA’s this can cause them to be a darker golden color than a light golden color. But hey, for all the benefits of brewing with HME I think they significantly outweigh its one drawback. Cheers, Robert
Read moreWhat you need to get started homebrewing?
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="D8-h3yNNXmg" video_title1="What you need to get started homebrewing?" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} Depending on what type of method you are going to use to homebrew, you will need different items. While some only require common kitchen items, others require extra equipment to brew up a batch. The 3 brewing styles we are going to cover are Malt Extract, Specialty Grains, and All Grain. Malt Extract Brewing with Malt Extract is the simplest way to brew beer. It provides great tasting beer with less time and equipment required. All you need are common kitchen items to brew with. For brewing with Mr. Beer Malt extract you will need a 4qt or larger pot, mixing spoon, can opener, measuring cup, and that’s it! Most people have that available already in their kitchen so there is no need to purchase any extra equipment. You can also brew 5-gallon batches of malt extract. Depending on those instructions you may need a larger pot. If you are brewing with Coopers Extract (our parent company) then you mix everything up in the fermenter. So you don’t need a large pot. Specialty Grains Brewing with specialty grains is an added step in the brewing process. This is taking grains and in simple terms, steeping them in water for 30 minutes or so. You will usually have several ounces of grains and then you will still use a malt extract can as a base. For Mr. Beer, these make up a lot of our recipes. You will need everything that you need for Malt Extract brewing plus some additional items. You will need a larger pot, oftentimes to hold 1 gallon of water. You will need a thermometer so you can monitor your water temperature to help in stay within a range. You will also need tongs and a large strainer big enough to hold the wet grain bag. After the boil, you will put the grain bag into the strainer and run some hot water over it. All-Grain Now for brewing all-grain, you will need significantly more equipment as well as space to brew. You will need an 8 gallon or larger boil kettle. A mash tun, which is usually a 7 or 10-gallon cooler or kettle with a ball valve. A hot liquor tank, a false bottom for the mash tun, tubing that is high temperature resistant for transferring liquid, and a heat source. Most people use a propane burner. So to brew all-grain it is a significant investment in equipment, space, as well as time. I don’t know about you, but ill stick with the malt extract. Less equipment takes up less space, less time brewing and the beer tastes amazing! Cheers, Robert
Read more4 Tips to Become an Expert Homebrew
{{widget type="Solvature\VideoSlider\Block\Widget\VideoSliderWidget" video_embed1="RNK4lPBYxzw" video_title1="4 Tips to Become an Expert Homebrew" video_cta_color1="white" video_cta_color2="white" video_cta_color3="white" video_cta_color4="white" video_cta_color5="white"}} We thought we would share our best advice or tips to help make you an expert homebrewer. These are not secrets by any means but are simple tips that can help you brew good beer and maybe a good refresher for the seasoned homebrewer. Chase Flavor Not ABV Many new brewers are looking to get "bang for their buck" and frequently look for ways to increase their brews ABV. After searching the web for ways to do so, many people think adding sugar to their batch will increase the ABV. While this is true, there are several other factors to keep in mind when homebrewing: different sugar types can introduce different flavors that will affect your beer's overall color, flavor, and body. That is why we recommend chasing flavor and not ABV. Find what flavors you enjoy drinking and go from there. If you want to brew high ABV beers check out some of our recipes, we have several across different styles that will hit that 8.5% and up range. These have been designed to balance the flavor and make a good beer, not something that tastes terrible but just has a high ABV. Different Brews Require Different Fermenting & Conditioning Times While brewing the Mr. Beer Refills this will not change that much. Although we have several different styles they are all around the same ABV and use the same yeast. So for Refills, we suggest 10-14 days to ferment and then 14 days to carbonate in the bottle at room temperature. Any time over that is good for conditioning any off-flavors that you may have. Now when getting into brewing recipes you will want to make sure you pay attention to the instructions. Depending on what style of beer you are brewing or the ABV of that beer, the fermentation times will be different. They range anywhere from 14-21 days. A few good rules to keep in mind here, we recommend bottling your beer before you hit that 24-day mark. When you let your beer condition so leaving your bottles out at room temperature past the initial 14 days, hop flavor and bitterness will start to dissipate. So keep that in mind for those hoppy beers. Patience is a Virtue This has to be one of the hardest things for new homebrewers, which is just waiting for your beer to ferment or carbonate in the bottles. For me it is still something that drives me crazy, I just hate waiting to try something new. If you rush things when it comes to brewing, then most of the time it's going to have a negative impact on your beer. Rushing through the brewing steps or the fermentation process can lead to off-flavors in your beer or even create a bad enough infection where it is undrinkable. So be patient when brewing and make sure you have some beer stocked up whether it's homebrews or craft beer. The worst thing for a homebrewer is to be brewing an amazing beer, but not having any beer to enjoy during the process. Seek Out Help I have found that homebrewers love to share their knowledge, so don’t be afraid to ask questions. You can’t know it all from the get-go, and the best way to learn is to ask. I have been working at Mr. Beer for 8 years but I still have a ton of brewing questions that I ask our brewmasters especially about more advanced brewing topics. So if you don’t know something or are unsure, just ask! Cheers, Robert
Read moreThe Ancient History of Beer
It is no secret to most, that our beloved beer has quite a colorful and long history. Have you ever wondered exactly how long though? Maybe you have never asked yourself “where did beer come from?” or maybe you have, either way, you can count on the fact that if you are reading this. I am going to tell you! Pull up a comfortable chair, pour an ice-cold mug of homebrew and come along with me for a journey through the history of my favorite beverage, BEER! Most of us are aware that beer has lots of history within Europe and most savvy beer aficionados can make it at least as far back as the 15th century with their brew history. What about before all of that? You may find yourself surprised to learn that the first confirmed and documented “beer” was brewed in Ancient China around 7000 BCE! That is a long time, though this beer was not what we would really recognize as beer, here in the western world. The process that inspired the concept of modern-day brewing came about in Mesopotamia at the Godin Tepe settlement, the region that we now know as Iran, around 3,500-3,100 BCE. Even though the oldest confirmed knowledge of beer brewing comes from China, there is evidence to show that Southern Mesopotamia (Modern day Iraq) beer brewing could have been in practice much earlier, possibly as far back as 10,000 BCE. The people of ancient Mesopotamia viewed beer as a staple of their daily diets and even as an important part of their culture. The brewing and consumption of beer were depicted in many different forms of art, from songs and great myths to paintings of individuals sipping their “beer” from a straw to filter out possible particulates (filtration wasn’t really a “thing” yet). It is believed that the straw was an invention of early peoples, (possibly the Sumerians or the Babylonians) specifically for the purpose of drinking beer! There is even a famous poem written about two drunk Gods, Inanna and Enki, the God of Wisdom (that is ironic). In the poem, Enki gets SO drunk that he accidentally gives away the sacred “Meh”, otherwise known as “The Laws of Civilization” to Inanna. This poem is thought to symbolize a transfer of power from the City of Iridu, to the city of Uruk. The Sumerian poem, Hymn to Ninkasi, is both a song of praise to the goddess of beer, Ninkasi, and a recipe for beer, first written down around 1800 BCE. Beer is even a major player in The Epic of Gilgamesh! The Sumerians relied on beer so much that it was regarded as a gift from the gods to help promote the health and happiness of humankind. The original Sumerian brewers were women, both priestesses of Ninkasi and average women, running their households domestically. These women would use a twice-baked barley bread as their grain base and beer brewing and bread-making were closely related in the minds of these ancient peoples, alike. Under the Babylonian rule, Mesopotamian beer production increased dramatically, became more commercialized. Even Hammurabi wrote harsh laws regarding the commercial distribution of beer. One such law, number 108 states: “If a tavern-keeper (feminine) does not accept grain according to gross weight in payment of drink but takes money, and the price of the drink is less than that of the grain, she shall be convicted and thrown into the water.” Yikes! Because women were the primary purveyors of beer at the time, the laws were female-gender specific, and breeching any of them usually ended in unfortunate death. The Babylonian people were clearly, very serious about their beer, so serious that they had a rigorous, 20 category system for cataloging the different types. Babylonian Beer became a major trading Commodity with other civilizations, especially the Egyptians. Egypt was really no different when it came to associating beer with a female deity. The Egyptian goddess of beer was Tenenit, and she is closely associated with Meskhenet, goddess of childbirth, and protector of the birthing house. The most popular beer in Egypt was Heqet (or Hecht) which was a honey-flavored brew and their word for beer, in general, was zytum. Beer in Egypt was widely considered acceptable as payment for labor. Laborers were often given daily allotments of beer, as well. The Egyptians believed that the knowledge of brewing was given by the god Osiris and that he personally taught humans how to do it. Just like in the previously mentioned civilizations, beer production in Egypt was originally managed by women and represented one of the primary responsibilities associated with the women within the household. Later, as the production of beer in Egypt began to become more “commercialized”, men took over most of the production. Beer was such a popular beverage in Egypt that Cleopatra attracted a lot of unwanted hate for implementing a tax on its sales. From Egypt, beer began to travel into ancient Greece and Rome, naturally. The Greek word for beer, zythos from the Egyptian zytum. Unfortunately, beer did not catch on as swiftly in these regions. Both Greeks and Romans were preferential toward wines and regarded beer as somewhat of an “uncivilized” Beverage. Sophocles even had some “not so nice” things to say about beer. Nevertheless, the Romans were brewing beer (cerevisia) quite early as evidenced by the tomb of a beer brewer and merchant (a Cerveserius) in ancient Treveris (modern-day Trier). Excavations of the Roman military encampment on the Danube, Castra Regina (modern-day Regensburg) have revealed evidence of beer brewing on a significant scale shortly after the community was built in 179 CE by Marcus Aurelius. As time went on, beer began to move into Northern Europe, this is where most of us start when discussing the history of beer because it represents the beginnings of the beer, we would recognize even today. Germans began brewing beer as early as 800BCE, as indicated by jugs found containing beer remnants within ancient tombs. The earliest brewers in Europe were also women. The “Hausfrau” would brew the beer as part of her dominion over the cooking. As time went on, brewing in Germany was taken over by monastic monks. In 1516 CE the German Reinheitsgebot (purity order) was instituted which regulated the ingredients which could legally be used in brewing beer (only water, barley, hops, and later, yeast) in so doing, continued the practice of legislation concerning beer which the Babylonians under Hammurabi had done some three thousand years earlier. The Germans, like those who preceded them, also considered beer to be a daily staple of their diets. From the Celtic lands, beer spread further across Europe always following the same basic principles first instituted by the Sumerians: female brewers making beer in the home, use of hot water, and fermented grains. In one Finnish saga, the female brewer, Osmata, attempting to make a great beer for a wedding, discovers the use of hops in brewing with the help of a bee she sends to gather the plant. This story is expressed as a poem. From the Sumerians to the Finnish, beer was regarded as a magical gift from the heavens and its inhabitants. See, that old saying “beer is proof that god loves us”, might have a longer history than you think! Clearly, we have come a long way in how to make, enjoy, and even what we call, “beer”. Through all the changes, one thing always remains the same, human history and beer history run right alongside each other. Coincidence? Well, I will let you be the judge of that, but there is no doubt beer plays a significant role in just about every major ancient Civilization that we know about. Next time you gaze down into that ice-cold brew, remember that you are looking at an ancient thread, uniting the history of mankind, forever. LONG LIVE BEER! CHEERS! Ashley
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