Lock, Stock, and Barrel Stout 5 Gallon

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Whiskey barrel-aged imperial stouts are the ultimate indulgence in the craft beer world. Unfortunately, it is difficult for the average homebrewer to get their hands on a whiskey barrel. This recipe fixes that problem by including oak chips that you can soak with whiskey (or any liquor) and add to your fermenter.

$79.95
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90-15422-05
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Lock, Stock, and Barrel Stout 5 Gallon
Lock, Stock, and Barrel Stout 5 Gallon

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$79.95

Summary

    WHAT YOU GET

    1 Can Coopers Stout HME

    1 Can Coopers Dark Malt

    1 Can Coopers Amber Malt

    2 Packets of BrewMax LME Robust

    2 Packets of Fuggle Hops

    2 Packets of Munich Malt

    2 Packets of Chocolate Malt

    1 Packet of Oat Flakes

    2 Packets of Oak Chips

    1 Packet of Nottingham Yeast

    7 hop sacks

    2 Packets of No-Rinse Cleanser


    YOU PROVIDE

    2 Cups of your favorite bourbon or whiskey (enough to cover the oak chips)


    FOR FANS OF

    Goose Island Bourbon Barrel Stout

    Anderson Valley Wild Turkey Bourbon Barrel Stout


    BREW SPECS

    Flavor: Malty

    Original Gravity: 1.086

    Final Gravity: 1.017

    ABV: 9.5%

    SRM: (Color): 45

    IBU: (Bitterness): 60


    STEP 1: SANITIZING

    Cleaning is one of the most important steps in brewing. It kills microscopic bacteria, wild yeast, and molds that may cause off-flavors in your beer. Make certain to clean all equipment that comes in contact with your beer by following the directions below:

    1. Fill clean fermenter with 8 liters (2 Gallons) of warm water, then add 1 pack of No-Rinse Cleanser and stir until dissolved.

    2. Use your measuring cup to scoop the liquid up and run it down the side of the Coopers Fermenter. Do this around the entire fermenter a few times. Then add your krousen kollar and repeat. Then take some of the solution and pour it into the lid and allow it to sit for 2 minutes. (If you have a different fermenter sanitizing may be different.) 

    3. To clean the spigot, open it fully and allow the liquid to flow for 5 seconds, and then close.

    4. Pour some of the solution from the fermenter into a large bowl. You need enough to fully cover your brewing utensils. Place your spoon/whisk, can opener, and measuring cup into the bowl to keep them cleaned throughout the brewing process. Leave them immersed for at least 2 minutes in the cleaning solution prior to use. Any remaining solution in your fermenter can be discarded.

    5. After all, surfaces have been thoroughly cleaned, do not rinse or dry the keg or utensils. Return lid to the top of the fermenter, proceed immediately to brewing.


    STEP 2: BREWING

    Brewing beer is the process of combining a starch source (in this case, a malt brewing extract) with yeast. Once combined, the yeast eats the sugars in the malt, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2). This process is called fermentation.

    Place the oak chips into a small container, such as a small jar or bowl. Fill with whiskey until the chips are covered, then cover the container to prevent evaporation. Let this sit for 2 weeks, until addition. (You can place these oak chips in a hopsack if that makes your process easier)

    1. Remove the yeast packet from under the lid of the can of Brewing Extract (you won’t be using this), then place the unopened cans and BrewMax LMEs in hot tap water.

    2. Add all the packets of grains between 2 of the Muslin Hop Sacks tying them closed so that the grains have room to flow freely within the sack.

    3. Using a measuring cup, pour 8 cups of water into your clean 1-gallon or larger pot. Bring your pot of water up to above 155 degrees F.

    4. Add the grain sacks to the hot water and steep for 30 minutes between 155-165 degrees.

    5. Carefully lift the grain sacks out of the pot and place them into a strainer/colander. Rinse the sacks over the pot with 2 cups of hot water each. Let drain. Do NOT squeeze the grain bag. Discard grain bag.

    6. Place 1 packet of Fuggle pellet hops into a hop sack, tying it closed, then trim away excess material.

    7. Next, add in the packets of Robust LME into the grain water, stir and bring this mixture to a low rolling boil.

    8. Once at a boil, add in hop sack, and let simmer at a low boil for 20 minutes.

    9. While this is boiling, place the remaining packet of Fuggle hops into a hop sack and trim away excess material

    10. After the 20-minute boil has passed, add the 2nd hopsack and remove the pot from heat.

    11. Open the cans of Brewing Extract and pour the contents into the hot mixture in your pot. Stir until thoroughly mixed. This mixture of unfermented beer is called wort.

    12. Fill your fermenter with 1 gallon of cold water. (If using a Cooper’s BrewMax fermenter, fill with enough cold water to cover the spigot hole)

    13. Pour the wort, including the hop sacks, into your fermenter, and then bring the volume of the fermenter to 5 gallons or 19-liters by adding more cold water. Leave the hop sacks in the wort for the duration of fermentation.

    10. Stir your wort mixture vigorously with your sanitized spoon or whisk.

    11. Sprinkle the Nottingham yeast packet into the keg, and screw on the lid. Do not stir.

    Put your fermenter in a location with a consistent temperature between 68° and 75° F (20°-25° C), and out of direct sunlight. Ferment for 21 days.


    STEP 3: Adding Extras

    Adding extras is the process of adding additional ingredients to a beer that will impart more flavor and aroma to your finished brew.

    1. On day 14 of fermentation quickly add the oak chips and bourbon to the fermenter and replace the lid. Ferment for 1 more week before bottling


    STEP 4: BOTTLING & CARBONATING

    After 21 days, taste a small sample to determine if the beer is fully fermented and ready to bottle. If it tastes like flat beer, it is ready. If it’s sweet, then it’s not ready. Let it ferment for 3 more days (24 total). At this point, it is time to bottle. Do not let it sit in the fermenter for longer than 24 days total.

    1. When your beer is ready to bottle, fill 3 1-gallon containers with warm water, then split the remaining pack of the No-Rinse Cleanser between them and mix until dissolved. Once dissolved, it is ready to use.

    2. Distribute the cleaning solution equally among the bottles. Screw-on caps (or cover with a metal cap if using glass bottles) and shake bottles vigorously. Allow to sit 10 minutes, then shake the bottles again. Remove caps and empty all cleaning solutions into a large bowl. Use this solution to clean any other equipment you may be using for bottling. Do not rinse.

    3. Add 2 Carbonation Drops to each 740-mL bottle. For 1-liter bottles, add 2 ½ drops; for ½-liter bottles add 1 drop. Alternatively, you can add table sugar using this table as a guide. 

    4. Holding the bottle at an angle, fill each bottle to about 2 inches from the bottle’s top.

    5. Place caps on bottles, hand tighten, and gently turn the bottle over to check the bottle’s seal. It is not necessary to shake them.

    6. Store the bottles upright and out of direct sunlight in a location with a consistent temperature between 70°-76°F or 21°-24°C. Allow sitting for a minimum of 14 days. If the temperature is cooler than suggested it may take an additional week to reach full carbonation. 


    TIP FROM OUR BREWMASTERS

    After the primary carbonation has taken place your beer is ready to drink. We recommend putting 1 bottle in the refrigerator at first for 48 hrs. After 48hrs. give it a try and if it is up to your liking put the rest of your beer in the fridge. If it does not taste quite right, leave the bottles out at room temp for another week or so. Keep following this method until your brew tastes just how you like it. 

    This process is called conditioning and during this time the yeast left in your beer can help clean up any off-flavors. Almost everything gets a little better with time and so will your beer

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