Tri-Centennial Tricycle Red Ale 5 Gallon
Everyone at some point in their life has seen an old-looking tricycle and you wonder, “How old is that thing?”. Well, this is our tribute to those old ass tricycles sitting in garages all over America. Never to be used again, but never forgotten. So, we raise this glass of the perfect red ale, with the ideal balance of malt and bitterness, to all those old ass tricycles. May your spirit live on in this delicious red ale.
WHAT YOU GET
2 Cans of Coopers Amber Malt
2 Packets of BrewMax LME Smooth
2 Packets of BrewMax Booster
2 Packets of Red Wheat Flakes
2 Packets of Munich Malt
4 Packets of Centennial Hops
1 Packet of S-04 Dry Ale Yeast
5 Muslin Hop Sacks
2 Packets of No-Rinse Cleanser
FOR FANS OF
Faculty Brewing Co. 396 Centennial Red Ale
Original Gravity: 1.065
Final Gravity: 1.016
SRM: (Color): 10
IBU: (Bitterness): 63
STEP 1: SANITIZING
Cleaning is one of the most important steps in brewing. It kills microscopic bacteria, wild yeast, and molds that may cause off-flavors in your beer. Make certain to clean all equipment that comes in contact with your beer by following the directions below:
1. Fill clean fermenter with 8 liters (2 Gallons) of warm water, then add 1 pack of No-Rinse Cleanser and stir until dissolved.
2. Use your measuring cup to scoop the liquid up and run it down the side of the Coopers Fermenter. Do this around the entire fermenter a few times. Then add your krousen kollar and repeat. Then take some of the solution and pour it into the lid and allow it to sit for 2 minutes. (If you have a different fermenter sanitizing may be different.)
3. To clean the spigot, open it fully and allow the liquid to flow for 5 seconds, and then close.
4. Pour some of the solution from the fermenter into a large bowl. You need enough to fully cover your brewing utensils. Place your spoon/whisk, can opener, and measuring cup into the bowl to keep them cleaned throughout the brewing process. Leave them immersed for at least 2 minutes in the cleaning solution prior to use. Any remaining solution in your fermenter can be discarded.
5. After all, surfaces have been thoroughly cleaned, do not rinse or dry the keg or utensils. Return lid to the top of the fermenter, proceed immediately to brewing.
STEP 2: BREWING
Brewing beer is the process of combining a starch source (in this case, a malt brewing extract) with yeast. Once combined, the yeast eats the sugars in the malt, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2). This process is called fermentation.
1. Add all 4 packets of grains between 2 of the muslin sacks and tie it closed so that the grain can flow freely within the sacks and set aside.
2. Add 8 cups of water to a 1 gallon or larger boil pot. Begin heating the water to a range of 150-155 degrees F and hold, at this range. Next, add the grain sacks into the water, and maintain the 150-155 temp for 30 minutes.
3. While you wait, add 1 of the packets of Centennial Hops to a hopsack and tie it closed so that the hops have room to expand and flow freely within the sack. Add the other packet of Centennial hops to a second hopsack and tie it closed so that the hops have room to expand and flow freely within the sack. Then add the 2 remaining packets of Centennial hops together to a hopsack and tie it closed so that the hops have room to expand and flow freely within the sack. Keep track of which hopsack has the 2 packets and set them aside for later.
4. After the 30-minute steep has completed, turn off the heat and remove the grain sacks from the pot and place them into a colander to drain, allowing the runoff to flow back into the pot, and rinse the grain with one cup of hot water (around 150 degrees), letting the excess runoff flow back into your pot. DO NOT squeeze the grain sacks. Once drained, discard the grain sacks.
5. Open the Boosters and pour them into your grain water. Make sure to mix this thoroughly to prevent scorching. Once the Booster is thoroughly mixed bring this mixture up to a low rolling boil. Continue to stir occasionally while the mixture is coming to a boil.
6. Once you have reached a low rolling boil add in your first hopsack with the 1 packet of Centennial hops to boil for 60 minutes. (The hopsack will stay in the wort during the duration of fermentation.) Keep an eye on the water level and top off as necessary.
7. With 30 minutes left in your 60-minute boil add in the other hopsack with the 1 packet of Centennial hops to the boil. (The hopsack will stay in the wort during the duration of fermentation.) Keep an eye on the water level and top off as necessary.
8. With 20 minutes left in your 60-minute boil add in the remaining hopsack with the 2 packets of Centennial hops in it for the remainder of the boil. Once your 60-minute boil is done remove the pot from the heat. (The hopsack will stay in the wort during the duration of fermentation.)
9. Open both cans of brewing extract as well as the LME packets and add them to the pot, stir with a sanitized spoon to combine.
10. Fill your fermenter with enough cold water to cover the spigot hole. Approximately 1-2 gallons of water.
11. Pour the wort including the hop sacks, into your fermenter, and then bring the volume of the fermenter to 5 gallons or 19 liters by adding more cold water.
12. Stir your wort mixture vigorously with your sanitized spoon or whisk.
13. Sprinkle the S-04 brewing yeast packet into the fermenter, and place on the lid. Do not stir.
Put your fermenter in a location with a consistent temperature between 68° and 78° F, and out of direct sunlight. Ferment for 21 days.
STEP 3: BOTTLING & CARBONATING
After 21 days, taste a small sample to determine if the beer is fully fermented and ready to bottle. If it tastes like flat beer, it is ready. If it’s sweet, then it’s not ready. Let it ferment for 3 more days (24 total). At this point, it is time to bottle. Do not let it sit in the fermenter for longer than 24 days total.
1. When your beer is ready to bottle, fill 3 1-gallon containers with warm water, then split the remaining pack of the No-Rinse Cleanser between them and mix until dissolved. Once dissolved, it is ready to use.
2. Distribute the cleaning solution equally among the bottles. Screw-on caps (or cover with a metal cap if using glass bottles) and shake bottles vigorously. Allow to sit 10 minutes, then shake the bottles again. Remove caps and empty all cleaning solutions into a large bowl. Use this solution to clean any other equipment you may be using for bottling. Do not rinse.
3. Add 2 Carbonation Drops to each 740-mL bottle. For 1-liter bottles, add 2 ½ drops; for ½-liter bottles add 1 drop. Alternatively, you can add table sugar using this table as a guide.
4. Holding the bottle at an angle, fill each bottle to about 2 inches from the bottle’s top.
5. Place caps on bottles, hand tighten, and gently turn the bottle over to check the bottle’s seal. It is not necessary to shake them.
6. Store the bottles upright and out of direct sunlight in a location with a consistent temperature between 70°-76°F or 21°-24°C. Allow sitting for a minimum of 14 days. If the temperature is cooler than suggested it may take an additional week to reach full carbonation.
TIP FROM OUR BREWMASTERS
After the primary carbonation has taken place your beer is ready to drink. We recommend putting 1 bottle in the refrigerator at first for 48 hrs. After 48hrs. give it a try and if it is up to your liking put the rest of your beer in the fridge. If it does not taste quite right, leave the bottles out at room temp for another week or so. Keep following this method until your brew tastes just how you like it.
This process is called conditioning and during this time the yeast left in your beer can help clean up any off-flavors. Almost everything gets a little better with time and so will your beer